After the exhaustion of day 2 sleep came quickly, so I am relatively refreshed for day 3 of th trail. It as freezing in the night but I basically wore everything I had and used my rain jacket as a blanket on top of my sleeping bag... And this time I blew up the air mattress instead of assuming it was self inflating!
Woken as ever with our bowl of hot water, soap and hot coca tea... Even though it's 5am its actually a pleasant way to wake up all this considered. Vlad explained we were woken earlier because we are soooo slow at getting ready!!! The trip to the camping toilet is a treacherous path, especially when raining or dark down a rocky hill, over a waterfall with a rickety bridge... Hmmm not good when you are barely awake. I had an unfortunate incident last night with my head torch, taking it off too quickly it got stuck in my hair.... Not an attractive look head torch hanging from my hair like an accessory, no one could get it out so no option but to basically rip it out... Not great! I will learn to wear a hat from now on with the torch on top so that I don't end up bald by the end of the trip.
The usual fabulous breakfast before we set off, forgot to mention we also get daily snacks for the road of biscuits and fruit to keep us going, plus water is provided every day. They basically have thought of everything. However, today is a full downhill run and from lunch for about 4 hours no toilets!!! Did I mention it's raining. Out with the pink poncho.... I'm all set and ready to go although I look a bit like a pink floaty apparition. Walking down hundreds of ridiculously steep and small steps from Paqaymayo to Winaywayna for our last night.
So now I need the sticks, my legs have seized up and basically just above the knee is saying what the hell is wrong with you girl!! The scenery today is just breathtaking as we descend through the cloud forest. Just almost impossible to take in when you are concentrating on not breaking your neck down the cobble steps that have turned into a waterfall in the rain. I am getting slower and slower as I descend, looking down at how high I actually am and trying to fit my feet on steps, use sticks, negotiate my huge poncho flyng in my face or covering my feet... It's very technical, why can't we just keep going uphill much better!
However, I have a nice day with Kathy hanging out at the back of the pack. We check out the orchids, search for the elusive frogs that keep singing to each other across our path. Things I will never forget Kathy shouting in the bushes to get the frogs to come out, had to smile. It was a lovely day, but 16km at my tortoise pace is a loooonnnnngggg day. Did I mention the rain too..!! It may sound like a bad day, but still I loved every minute, every corner a breathtaking view of snow capped mountains or the clouds engulfing you. After a quick stop with Kathy we bump into Vlad, that's when I spot his ingenuity that saves him from the poncho problems I have been having. I quickly get him to make adjustments, basically to tie together the bottom corners... Why didn't I think of that, now I can see my feet and it doesn't blow up in the wind. My saviour!
Lunch was a fun affair as we all started singing songs about sunshine in an attempt to fend off the rain clouds, I will never forget Peggy and Kathy singing their hart out, and Kathys invisible drum kit moves... Classic! The group is really like family, everyone having a great time and supporting each other the porters always there to cheer and give you a push along the route as they blast past! They never put a foot wrong, just tip toeing down the steps as I carefully place first one then the second stick and carefully put another foot down another step... When will they end is basically the only thing on my mind. In a good way though, I may be aching, it may be raining, I may be struggling with every step but I am loving every moment.
Anyway, after lunch back on the trail this afternoon the search for orchids I think there are about 300 types of orchid in the area according to Vlad, and he is determined to show us as many as he can find. Some are so small you would never notice them, Vlad is pretty amazing at spotting and has a lot of knowledge on the plants around here. It's really nice and relaxing. That is until the desperate urge to go to the toilet!
Now up to now I haven't mentioned toilets, some things are best left in camp. But something you should know about the second half of day 3, 1 there are no toilets, 2 to the left there is a sheer cliff going up, on the right a sheer cliff drop, in front just cobble stone steps or walkway. This is not an environment for a dignified toilet break. I was stopped in the path a few times by a friend of another hiker as they did a Paula Radcliffe and just went where they were.
Anyway, as we reach a fork in the road... One way goes to the view point the other straight to camp, not being one to miss a view I give directions to the group (mainly so I am on my own), then see my one chance for relief. Anyway, that is scuppered when Vlad turns up and a few others, I basically call out to Peggy and Kathy to help save my dignity.... They are now the door. So I head into the clearing and unbelievably a tour group of what feels like hundreds of guys, turns up and stops for a chat... Peggy and Kathy doing some kind of subtle stretching, exercise routine to detract from my figure in the background. You kind of had to be there but it felt like the group would never leave and I was there forever, but was pretty funny. Anyway, once sorted I calmly walk from the bushes!
The view point is spectacular and well worth the wait although those final steps down are excruciating, too exhausted at this point for too many pictures, I'm very happy to get to camp. Dinner is served quickly, and as its Laura's 30th tomorrow the team have arranged a huge birthday cake, we sing happy birthday and tuck into the gorgeous orange cake .... tomorrow though we have a ridiculously early start 3am we get up! This is because the porters need to pack up and get home to their families, and we need to trek a while to watch as Machu Picchu is revealed at the sun gate!! The last night we thank the porters and chef, the tips are given out and we say what has made our time so special so far. It's a bit emotional really knowing that the adventure and family is coming to an end. One last game of Shithead for the road, and then solemly we head to bed.
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