Saturday 30 March 2013

Chichen Itza... Easy tours

Have to say I'm glad for the ridiculously long sleep and am up and raring to go for the 7.30am pickup and day trip to Chichen Itza. Sadly the hotel breakfast isn't till 8am, so we head to the nearest place for take out breakfast.... Maybe muesli and milk wasn't the best choice!! And didn't help that we were given forks to eat with. Thankfully, the nearby shop had spoons, our tour agent ran to get them as they turned up 30minutes early and we had to run out of the restaurant with our food.

It comes as a bit of a shock when we get on a huge coach, having been sold a tour for 12 people in a mini van 50 people on a coach is a bit different. The next hour is spent rafting around the general area picking up more and more people till the bus is full. We then head straight to Chichen Itza, where the next surprise is that the 2 hrs to Chichen Itza is actually more like 4 with all the messing around. We get there at midday!! You could probably get there in 2 hrs as its 140km away, but not on this tour!

Chichen Itza doesn't have any limit on number of tourists like Machu Picchu, so it's swamped... I think they mentioned that since its become one of the new 7 wonders we are talking 8000 people a day, maybe more on the March and September solstice days when the serpent can be seen ascending and descending the pyramid. Our tour guide is like someone from the Texas military... marching us into the park.

It's really interesting though and surprising about the history of the place, we get 2 hours to look around which is about enough, you could probably do a bit more but it's enough to get the information you need and some good pics. Our guide has all the advice on photos, squashing the pyramid, holding the pyramid in your hand, with your finger and so on.... We could be there all day as he shows how to do photo art of Chichen Itza.

The place is a bit spoilt with the endless row upon row of stalls all selling the same souvenirs it's actually a bit oppressive the volume of stalls actually in the place itself. "Hey lady, best price, cheaper than my ugly neighbour" is all I hear them say... After Chichen Itza we head for a really nice buffet lunch included in the tour, with some traditional Mexican dancers.... I am just amazed at how they keep the beer bottle on their heads as they spin round and round... Skilful!!

Next stop is Cenotes a pool with vines hanging in a cave, that's the best I can really do to describe it really. There are miles of underwater caves in the area apparently this is just one place. It's lovely, and the water is so nice to swim in after a hot day walking around. Refreshing!!! Sadly we are rushed here, only 1 hour we could have done with 2.... Next stop is a Mayan village, basically here we are just brought to shop... But get a taste of a traditional Mayan drink and some quite nice tequila. Anyway, after trying on poncho's, sombreros and various other fun we buy a little bottle of the Mayan drink, bit like sambuca but much nicer and easier to drink!!!

Sadly, we aren't warned that it's another 3 hours before we get back so we don't eat.... 9pm we get back starving...! Again, a surprise as we were told back at 6.30pm. I would say if you book anything in Mexico make sure you shop around a lot, we had a great day but the frustration is that we weren't told what we were getting! So needless to say, no plans to use that tour agent again in a hurry.

Luckily there is a great restaurant directly under our hotel Di Vino, so we head there for a late dinner. The food is delicious, I order grouper and Helen has the lasagne, and I can't resist the tiramisu which was divine. They have wifi too, always a plus..! Although we couldn't connect, a common problem in popular places. It's not the cheapest place, but food and service is really good so worth it really.

 

Playa del Carmen

So after the thrill of last nights shopping craziness, in the cold light of day, when the caprioska's wore off the items weren't quite as appealing!! Thank goodness for deciding on cooling off....

Breakfast is included in the hotel and pretty basic, but after the huge buffets of Miami it's nice to have a light breakfast. After breakfast we head out to find the gym, we get 50% off a day pass and a day costs about £4 so I am actually really keen to have a workout, days are so relaxing I need something to wear me out!! The gym is really good, even if the staff aren't the friendliest on the planet!

After that we book up our day trip to Chichen Itza and head for a lovely lunch at Cocina Mexicana, and have a chicken lasagna made with tortilla chips instead of pasta... Delicious! We then take a wander round, down to the beach and have a look at Playa del Carmen and what there is to do. It's pretty cloudy today, and the beach is not too crowded but still quite a few people around as it's Easter holidays or Spring Break as the Americans call it....

It's a chilled day really, nothing too strenuous... I'm pretty shattered after the gym this morning exercise is definitely a bit of a shock to the system so I hate to say that my 7pm power nap turns into sleep!

 

Mexico here we come....

So it's checkout time at the Shore Club, and this is when you find out about all the ridiculous taxes, we have 3 types of tax added to the quoted price for the room which bumps up the charges massively. What is wrong with the US, same yesterday in the shops.... Just quote the full price to pay and show the tax on the receipt, don't quote the before tax amount only ... then we don't all have to get a bloody calculator out to work out what you need us to pay and if we can afford it. It's these little annoyances that just make you feel like never coming back!

Thankfully though we are leaving.... So it's off to the airport, we head to checkin with American and this is when Helen gets a shock that her bags are over weight, it's all in pounds which is confusing as well. 10lbs over and it's $10 per pound charge. I have to pay for an extra bag but that is only $40, and to be honest as I have pretty much got away with it to now on all my flights I'm not that upset to pay it. Helen creates her additional hand luggage out of a spare bag of mine and we make our way through customs.

The flight is 2hrs and you get a drink, just soft drinks are free the rest you pay and no food or anything else. Thankfully we had bought lunch which was lovely (my advice to do that because the food on American airlines i don't think should actually be classified as food, it's bloody awful, every flight I have ever had with them it's been the worst food of any airline and I have flown with many!!). We arrive in Mexico and its nice to feel some warmth, its still a bit cloudy here but warmer by far from Miami.

It takes us about 45minutes to get to Playa Del Carmen, driving in you see the huge all inclusive hotels and the usual street setup with the electricity wires overhead and small sprawling houses, typical of this sort of place and like Central America, Caribbean really. Our reception in the hotel is really great, the place is lovely and we find we have been upgraded due to a mishap with out booking and have a balcony room.

The room is nice, very white, really lovely. More blackout blinds and sound proofing!! We are given out vouchers for various places to eat, drink etc. and told about the pool party on Friday and the like. After unpacking we head to our pool bar for a drink, maybe two... And the to Mi Pueblo for some food. This is we're we discover just how hot the Mexican food is, and it is hot!

We have learnt from Miami too, big portions so from now on we are sharing. Shared started and main, we have shrimp and lobster, it was lovely. I love the little warm bags the flour tortillas come in, they are quilted like a blanket. I think the drink goes to Helen's head a little as after dinner we seem to embark on a crazy shopping spree, so to save her from buying everything from sunglasses, to bags and shoes made out of crocodile I advise a cooling off period. We get them to put the items on hold on the promise to return tomorrow (none alcohol fuelled) and check she still likes them.

I think Helen is a little over excited with the range of shops in the area... To be honest there are bargains to be made especially with the fact that every 50m there is a sunglasses shop! There are so many shops with sales people trying to draw you in though that 5th Ave is a little frustrating to walk down. It's very Americanised here, but then that is the main tourist attracted and tourism is 90% of employment here too so they are all after your money in one way or another.

 

Back to the future

So, it's my final day in Miami and tomorrow will be winging my way to Ol' Me Hi Co..... As they say. So what better way to spend the day than shopping!! The plan was a little shop and then pool, but ended up a lot of shopping. In the morning too I checked emails and to my surprise was sent through an excellent job, after speaking with the recruiter I was happy I wanted to apply so started to gather my application together, getting a copy of my CV and requesting references etc. the usual.

This was enough to drag me back to the reality that I could end up working on the 6th May!!!! To be honest, it's not a bad thought I have had such an amazing time I think I'm ready to take all my energy now and aim to balance my work life and pleasures. I have found new things I enjoy, and had amazing adventures, and now that the pace is slowing dramatically towards the end of this adventure I'm getting... How can I say it... a little bored.... and craving some excitement or something new.

Anyway, back to shopping.... We head to Aventura Mall just out of town about 35 minutes. All the malls are pretty much out of town, this has , Macies and the big department stores and designer shops. Not as crazy high end as some of the others, just nice, plus some sales are on so we are seeking a few bargains if we can. Of course there are UK stores here, but best to avoid them... I didn't come to Miami to buy All Saints or Ted Baker!

I am specifically looking for a dress for the Grand National on the 6th April, and any accessories to go with it. After a good few hours I end up with 4 dresses and a top! All bargains, except the national dress but it's gorgeous and by the same designer of the dress I wore last year too so I love it. The rest of the day is just chilled, dinner and a nice bottle of red ... Very civilised! Followed by packing.... Luckily it all fits although I do have to borrow space in Helen's case for my dresses as they don't go well in a back pack!

I'm looking forward to leaving Miami, the weather hasn't been great here and I'm not overly enamoured with the place to be honest.

 

Friday 29 March 2013

Ultra again... Gotta love Ferry!!!

So, we get a leisurely late breakfast in the room and start to get ready for round 2 of ultra, very slowly, and I have to say its not with the same excitement as the first day knowing what it's going to be like this time! So the whole process is pretty slow, and eventually we drag ourselves out of the sanctuary of the hotel into a cab downtown. Helen is suffering the after affects of too much red bull!!! We have a bite to eat, and bottle of red wine to relax into the evening. The food is ridiculously huge portions, stodgy and fattening.... Neither of us can finish it, I feel like I ate a brick so dancing it off is the only option.

We head in and have a walk around to find a good place to get started, we arrive just for the end of Above and Beyond and then walk round to find Mark Knight, it's a difficult task because they have changed the names of the arenas today and the signs are for the old ones!!! Nice move. Eventually we find it and at least it helped walk off the food, the music is great and not as crowded as the live stage and Snoop Dog!

We have to make a sharp exit to catch the end of Seth Troxler, he plays good tunes but looks a bit distraught... The mixing isn't great, he is using vinyl which is a surprise and sounds like the needle has gone! He also keeps disappearing. Next stop Ferry Corsten.... The highlight of the night to be honest, we walk in to "rock your body" and some all time classic trance hits... You can't not enjoy it!!! Then PVD comes on, have to say its not a great start, and with only and hour left of the festival we head to see Swedish House Mafias final performance... The main stage is completely impossible to get near so we stand we're we can, but because of the sound control it's not great if you aren't up close to the stage... I guess that's the trade off when it's such a small venue!

All done, we head home.... To be honest, I'm quite glad it's over. I enjoyed it, but will never go again and at this point not even sure I like Miami that much! But think I haven't seen enough to make a final decision....

 

Ultra Festival....

So it's the second day of the festival when we join in and we have a hearty breakfast to keep us going, and start to get ready. Having seen what people are wearing I'm pretty much shorts and T-shirt.... The hotel is really lovely, not cheap though and automatic 18% service charge on everything...!!! The breakfast area is by the pool, and really relaxing.

Mark Graham comes to meet us for breakfast as it turns out he is in town on business, so it's lovely to catch up with him over coffee (tea for me and H) and find out what's going on, I leave him with Helen and head for a pedicure. After Machu Picchu my feet are crying out for some pampering and turns out I get 90 minutes of it..... They come away softer than they have ever been in my life, so all pretty and new time to dance the night away!

We head to ultra in the afternoon, a quick Mojito first in Bayside and then we go in. First we have to find the entrance, we follow the crowd but its weird, either loads of people don't have tickets or just want to hang around outside the venue... Blocking the entrance!!! You have to fight your way though the loiterers to get in. The place isn't huge, but it's crowded and difficult to get around as most of it only has one route to it, it's not very open so as a result everyone is rammed into the same small paths... It makes it slow going between sets. The main stage is absolutely packed with people.

There are about 6-7 stages, quite close to each other but they do really well containing the sound to each arena it has to be said considering the close proximity. Of that I am impressed.... Looking around I'm shocked at the age range, it looks like a teenagers party... Everyone seems to be about 14-18. We decide to get a drink and when we go to order are advised we need to queue to get a wrist band and show ID!!!! ID.... I didn't bring any, neither did Helen.

So we go to the wrist band man and he says ID please, I start to explain we don't have any as didn't want to bring passports where they likely to be stolen... Helen calls out, "I'm 40" at which point all the kids (younger than her students I would say) all turn round and stare.... hilarious, shades on we look away but the man really doesn't care and gives us a wrist band anyway saying its not his problem... !!!

We head to the Carl Cox arena, and watch Cirez D who was pretty damn good and we have a fun time. We spot the only person older than us, a guy with a grey beard, large purple hat and a T-shirt that says Stay Calm and Rave On!!! Every now and then we turn round to a huge Utlra festival camera right in our faces filming.... I am praying we don't make the cut!

After Cirez D we head to the main stage, catching the end of Benny Bennasi and then a bit of cheesy fun with Fat Boy Slim. It's ridiculously crowded, my shades keep steaming up, and I'm wedged in between a bunch of 18 year old Mexicans who have found a new use for the platypus!!! And filled it with tequila.... Ah, so now I understand why everyone here has a platypus on their back... What ever happened to bottles! Anyway, despite the pushing, shoving and general ignorance of the crowd we make it through in one piece unscathed and still smiling.

Next stop Carl Cox, he plays really well as always and by this time we are a bit full on vodka red bull and were topped up with platypus tequila!! Still, the crowd are really not very friendly and the atmosphere not great. Music and line up pretty great 8 or 9 out of 10, but American teenage crowd... 3 - 4 out of 10 and the oh so important toilets are nearly the worst I have seen! So in terms of value for money... Hmmm! How they can call it best international festival I really don't know. But that's just one opinion, given that most Americans never leave their own country I don't think they would ever know any different!

We leave and head back, meet up with Marky for a quick drink at the end of the day and then crash for the night. Apparently P Diddy is having a party on "star island" starting at 4am, but who can be bothered with that! Last time I saw him partying he spent the whole night blowing a very annoying trumpet... So no thanks... Will give it a miss!

 

Miami baby.....

So I arrive in Miami and have to say it is instantly a culture shock from the ease of pace in South America and the Caribbean. So much traffic, and noise... It's sensory overload. I head to the hotel, the Shore Club in Miami South Beach and get checked in. So far no major drama's, it's only $21 on the airport shuttle, and it's and easy enough journey.

Arriving in South beach it's about 4pm and the streets are already packed with festival goers, and people ready for a night out all dressed up. Never seen so much luminous clothing in my life.... I say clothing, (and I know I will sound like someone's mum saying this) but its barely anything, I have never seen silver hot pants so small in my life, just enough material for them not to be called a thong and matched with a tiny bikini top... I thought Liverpool girls wore next to nothing, but this is obscene.... Girls of all shapes and sizes in the same day glow outfits... It really has to be seen to be believed. A lady in the cab was basically questioning if they were call girls!!

Checked in and away from the craziness outside I head to the room which is lovely, sound proofed, with beach view ... Although that may be a bit of a stretch, you can see it just about in the distance from where we are, now I can in pack and wait for the arrival of Helen!!!

Sadly, her flight is delayed aircon and engine problems which is not good, so it turns out she won't arrive until the morning now so plans for Ultra festival this evening are scuppered as she has the tickets!! But I am quite happy just to relax for the evening, room service and a movie and plenty of rest.

She finally arrives at about 6am, we catch up and I hear all the drama of the delays, being upgraded to business class and running into ex-students!!!! Time to rest a bit as we have a long night ahead with Ultra festival so a bit more sleep and then breakfast.

 

Thursday 21 March 2013

Sad goodbyes, farewell Peru

And so we fly back to Lima, and back to the hotel where it all started in the Antigua Miraflores. We get settled back in and arrange to have dinner at 6ish. I am keen to try ceviche, so think that is a must before I leave. Yuri knows a good place, just over the road... Literally... so it's off to get unpacked and ready for a night out in Lima.

Dinner is delicious, although I think I accidentally ordered two main courses. The ceviche came out and was a huge plate of raw fish.. I knew that was what ceviche was but wasn't expecting the volume, but persevere as best I can through what feels like 1kg of raw fish!!!! The duck ragout pasta to follow is huge too, but delicious. And we get complimentary deserts just in case we weren't already full!!!! It's time to say our farewell speeches as this is the last time we will all be together, it gets a bit emotional and there are some tears. But it has been a real journey for all of us I think, and everyone has had their own unique and amazing experience as a result.

Tears over, I am glad to walk off dinner, and we head to The Old Pub for Pisco, saying goodbye to Curtis and Rachel on the way. Here we catch up with our Inca Trail buddies and the night descends into drinks, catching up and dancing... Thankfully the bars shut early here so it's not a late one, but yet again a good night out with everyone and more sad goodbyes as we all go our separate ways, some home and some to new places to travel.

It's really just taking it easy in Lima from this point and making the most of the downtime, there are some Pre-inca sites to visit and the ocean is lovely for walking and relaxing, I'm happy at this point to take it easy as my next stop is Miami, which will be anything but relaxed and probably a bit of a culture shock after South America and its laid back style of living. I am so excited that Helen my bessie will be coming to join me from now on, a partner in crime to enjoy the last few weeks of my adventure.... I can't say I have ever been lonely on this trip, in fact at times I have craved sanctuary of my own company, but to see such a good friend now is just perfect for me... I wish they were all coming!! I miss my family and friends very much and am looking forward to seeing them all on the 6th April for a big celebration and some horse racing shenanigans in Liverpool... Thankfully I won't be tango'd like the rest of them ... Lol !!!

 

Lake Titcaca and it's islands

Another 7am start for a full day today, lots on the agenda as we experience 2 completely unique cultures with their own language and traditional way of living in modern Peru. We start the day with a quick tuk tuk ride down to the port at Lake Titikaka to catch our speed boat, well more motor than speed we aren't exactly tearing around but it's a nice leisurely ride out to Taquile island for our first stop.

Taquile island has its own community, and they speak the inca language of kethchewan. The men here all knit, you can see them walking around with their needles, these are made from the spokes of bicycles apparently. The women weave, and their is a belt that has been protected under unesco apparently which is their calendar belt showing the 12 months and their significance in harvesting. You can also tell the marital status of everyone by the hat they wear, each colour for married, or single, they even have living together...! The island is so picturesque, with the lake visible from the main square. The knit wear is of course irresistible for shopping... I have to get at least one piece!

We head up for lunch, rainbow trout and the food as ever in Peru is divine... Then we finish up And head back to the boat, despite the altitude it is scorching hot today. Our next stop is Uros, the floating islands and the people who live there!! I have at this point no idea what is in store and am amazed when I arrive.

So basically the island is made of reeds, kind of... Layers upon layers of reeds all held together onto one small island, and it is small and anchored so it doesn't literally float away. One family lives here, about 15 or so people men, women, and children. They even have solar panels and TV's, I am amazed at what has been achieved here to mix traditional culture with modern needs. The children are great fun running around, taking us to show the houses. Of course, they have things for sale and it would be rude not to so I grab a couple of ceramic egg cups to round off my Peru shopping spree!

Next it's a boat ride in a reed boat, slow and tranquil its an interesting experience and I am really taken by the people here. As I go to leave the kids keep grabbing my hand, one last hug, one last swing around... So cute! They sing a little song, and we head back to Puno.

That evening we go for traditional Peruvian BBQ chicken with some traditional style dancing show along with it, it is great fun and a nice way to end an interesting day on the lake. Tomorrow we head back to Lima, and I think we are all sad about that as it signifies the end of our tour.... It's been amazing and just such a wonderful experience that its very hard to see it coming to an end.

 

The road to Puno is laced with Pisco

We leave Cuzco at around 8am, and get on our bus to Puno. It's very much a relaxing day, but Puno is quite high altitude so it's going to get colder. On the journey we pass the highest altitude point, 4300 ish, and at this point there are some markets with Alpaca wool goods, here we go with shopping again... It's just irresistible in Peru, you literally can't stop yourself buying stuff! Well I am lucky because I literally don't have much money, so I just keep picking things up and saying the one price, after all that is all I have... I am lucky, and get some real bargains that are gorgeous.

Back on the bus, our next stop is lunch and a special cooked lamb... It was delicious, very interesting the way it is cooked and stored, it's not often a eat a lamb out of a mound of news paper with a baked potatoe using my hands!!! But well worth the pit stop to experience it. Now it's Pisco cocktail making time.

Yuri is in his element, handing out limes to squeeze and giving a lesson in where Pisco comes from, how to savour a shot of Pisco, how to make the perfect Pisco Sour, he is an expert despite the ridiculously bumpy bus ride at separating the egg white from the yolk into the cocktail shaker. And then it's time to shake... Almost crying with laughter as Yuri stops to ensure the right music is playing on the bus as he starts to shake the cocktail.... I come from a land down under... Really!!! Delicious though... Think I have found a new drink!

We all get a go at making them, shaking them and certainly drinking them and are all a little bit tipsy when we pile off the bus in Puno. Well it is Paddy's day after all!!! Checkin, quick dinner and early to bed, we have an interesting day on Lake Titikaka tomorrow...

 

Back to Cuzco, time for shopping

So today I drag myself to breakfast and meet Peggy and Kathy, we are keen to go and see the local jeweller who makes their own silver and gold onsite. Yuri arranges to take us there, and have to say it is a worthwhile visit. We are shown all the rocks, gems and shells used and shown how they make everything by hand. Just beautiful, I am particularly taken by the green Machu Picchu stone...

We spend the next hour(s) just browsing, the owner literally opens 4 rooms of beautiful jewellery and says go for your life, here's a basket... Well sadly the basket is way too small, and there is far too much choice. We are like 3 kids in a sweetie factory. Every time I put 1 thing back, I pick up 3 more... Let's just say, I don't need to buy jewellery for a while.

The rest of the day is just a bite to eat, sight seeing and shops nothing hectic and plans to meet for dinner in the evening we head to the sister restaurant from the previous night. The food equally as amazing, I have Peruvian stuffed potatoes as well as hot stone steak... yummy, or rico as you would say in Peru. Next stop early night, my bed is calling and tomorrow we have a 7hr bus journey to Puno to handle. However, Yuri agrees to lighten the trip that we will have a Pisco Sour making lesson.... Something to look forward to!

 

Sun gate and arrival in Machu Picchu

So the big day has arrived, time to visit Machu Picchu, I certainly feel like I have earned it with the Inca Trail. The last 3 days have been some of the best of my life, and now I know Machu Picchu is just 2 hours away I have mixed feelings. I kind of don't want this to end, but can't wait to see Machu Picchu. As I said early start, we basically get ready and then queue for the entrance to the sun gate. We haven't finished hiking yet, it's about 1.5 hrs to the sun gate and then just over half hour past there to Machu Picchu itself.

When we arrive at the sun gate there are a few hikers there, all waiting for the first glimpse of Machu Picchu. It is very cloudy today though and we just get a tiny glimpse before we have to decide to go, that the cloud won't clear quickly enough. By no means disappointed, it adds to the whole mystery and so we head out. The sun gate is amazing, so far away from Machu Picchu yet there is a sun room in Machu Picchu itself that directly lines up on the 21 December... Just sometimes in awe of the ingenuity of man.

And so we make it, we walk out of the Inca trail and into Machu Picchu itself. Breathtaking..... We all just breath it in at first, but then the reality of all the tourists hits as we see so many of them there. We are soon reunited with Yuri and Bob and Jean, say our hello's and then we have to leave and re-enter Machu Picchu, we get our passports stamped and are now guided for the final hour by Vlad and Saul around before our free time to explore.

I think everyone feels the same, who are all these people and why do we have to share this experience, at one point we had to wait for ages for a Japanese tourist to stop taking photos in order to get in to one area, Vlad had to have a word!!! I think that the people on the Inca Trail should be given the place to themselves for the morning, rather than sharing with 2000 tourists who got a bus here! I think we earned some peace to take it all in... But no matter, there is still the ability for some tranquility blocking out the other people.

We walk to the Inca Bridge, which is a bit scary a lot of sheer drops!!! And then just sit and watch as the clouds cover and reveal Machu Picchu each time this happens you see something new, and just are in awe of the place. So peaceful to just sit and watch and contemplate life! Dont worry I'm not going all spiritual on you all, but to me its no wonder this is one of the new seven wonders of the world.

Soon it's time to go and reluctantly we leave, heading back for some food in town before catching the train back to Cuzco. This is where we say farewell to Saul and Vlad, it's very emotional as we say how much they have made the trip memorable and an amazing experience. I won't forget Vlads cheekiness, and teasing and Saul's cheeky laugh is just brilliant I really wish I recorded it, they are both truly wonderful people and made our family possible. I mean it from the bottom of my heart, they will be missed and I will never forget them.

I decide that we need a bit of a pick up on the train home, so for Lauras 30th and to celebrate finishing the Inca Trail I buy a few bottles of fizzy pop... Rude not to celebrate on such a day like this. The train journey is full of toasts for our group, and it's nice to have a little buzz and some music and bopping in our chairs as we wind our way back to civilisation.

We get back to the hotel, first thing.... bags, room, hot shower!!!! We quickly get ready and then head to a very nice restaurant for Laura's 30th birthday dinner. I decide it's time to try Alpaca... So steak it is. The food is amazing, and capriahinas are fabulous, going down nicely. Everyone is shattered, but I am looking forward to a night out so as the others head home I join the youngsters in the Paddy bar and settle in for the night of Peruvian partying, dancing the night away in Mythology the local club!!! A good night was had by all...

 

Inca Trail - Day 3 it's all downhill from here

After the exhaustion of day 2 sleep came quickly, so I am relatively refreshed for day 3 of th trail. It as freezing in the night but I basically wore everything I had and used my rain jacket as a blanket on top of my sleeping bag... And this time I blew up the air mattress instead of assuming it was self inflating!

Woken as ever with our bowl of hot water, soap and hot coca tea... Even though it's 5am its actually a pleasant way to wake up all this considered. Vlad explained we were woken earlier because we are soooo slow at getting ready!!! The trip to the camping toilet is a treacherous path, especially when raining or dark down a rocky hill, over a waterfall with a rickety bridge... Hmmm not good when you are barely awake. I had an unfortunate incident last night with my head torch, taking it off too quickly it got stuck in my hair.... Not an attractive look head torch hanging from my hair like an accessory, no one could get it out so no option but to basically rip it out... Not great! I will learn to wear a hat from now on with the torch on top so that I don't end up bald by the end of the trip.

The usual fabulous breakfast before we set off, forgot to mention we also get daily snacks for the road of biscuits and fruit to keep us going, plus water is provided every day. They basically have thought of everything. However, today is a full downhill run and from lunch for about 4 hours no toilets!!! Did I mention it's raining. Out with the pink poncho.... I'm all set and ready to go although I look a bit like a pink floaty apparition. Walking down hundreds of ridiculously steep and small steps from Paqaymayo to Winaywayna for our last night.

So now I need the sticks, my legs have seized up and basically just above the knee is saying what the hell is wrong with you girl!! The scenery today is just breathtaking as we descend through the cloud forest. Just almost impossible to take in when you are concentrating on not breaking your neck down the cobble steps that have turned into a waterfall in the rain. I am getting slower and slower as I descend, looking down at how high I actually am and trying to fit my feet on steps, use sticks, negotiate my huge poncho flyng in my face or covering my feet... It's very technical, why can't we just keep going uphill much better!

However, I have a nice day with Kathy hanging out at the back of the pack. We check out the orchids, search for the elusive frogs that keep singing to each other across our path. Things I will never forget Kathy shouting in the bushes to get the frogs to come out, had to smile. It was a lovely day, but 16km at my tortoise pace is a loooonnnnngggg day. Did I mention the rain too..!! It may sound like a bad day, but still I loved every minute, every corner a breathtaking view of snow capped mountains or the clouds engulfing you. After a quick stop with Kathy we bump into Vlad, that's when I spot his ingenuity that saves him from the poncho problems I have been having. I quickly get him to make adjustments, basically to tie together the bottom corners... Why didn't I think of that, now I can see my feet and it doesn't blow up in the wind. My saviour!

Lunch was a fun affair as we all started singing songs about sunshine in an attempt to fend off the rain clouds, I will never forget Peggy and Kathy singing their hart out, and Kathys invisible drum kit moves... Classic! The group is really like family, everyone having a great time and supporting each other the porters always there to cheer and give you a push along the route as they blast past! They never put a foot wrong, just tip toeing down the steps as I carefully place first one then the second stick and carefully put another foot down another step... When will they end is basically the only thing on my mind. In a good way though, I may be aching, it may be raining, I may be struggling with every step but I am loving every moment.

Anyway, after lunch back on the trail this afternoon the search for orchids I think there are about 300 types of orchid in the area according to Vlad, and he is determined to show us as many as he can find. Some are so small you would never notice them, Vlad is pretty amazing at spotting and has a lot of knowledge on the plants around here. It's really nice and relaxing. That is until the desperate urge to go to the toilet!

Now up to now I haven't mentioned toilets, some things are best left in camp. But something you should know about the second half of day 3, 1 there are no toilets, 2 to the left there is a sheer cliff going up, on the right a sheer cliff drop, in front just cobble stone steps or walkway. This is not an environment for a dignified toilet break. I was stopped in the path a few times by a friend of another hiker as they did a Paula Radcliffe and just went where they were.

Anyway, as we reach a fork in the road... One way goes to the view point the other straight to camp, not being one to miss a view I give directions to the group (mainly so I am on my own), then see my one chance for relief. Anyway, that is scuppered when Vlad turns up and a few others, I basically call out to Peggy and Kathy to help save my dignity.... They are now the door. So I head into the clearing and unbelievably a tour group of what feels like hundreds of guys, turns up and stops for a chat... Peggy and Kathy doing some kind of subtle stretching, exercise routine to detract from my figure in the background. You kind of had to be there but it felt like the group would never leave and I was there forever, but was pretty funny. Anyway, once sorted I calmly walk from the bushes!

The view point is spectacular and well worth the wait although those final steps down are excruciating, too exhausted at this point for too many pictures, I'm very happy to get to camp. Dinner is served quickly, and as its Laura's 30th tomorrow the team have arranged a huge birthday cake, we sing happy birthday and tuck into the gorgeous orange cake .... tomorrow though we have a ridiculously early start 3am we get up! This is because the porters need to pack up and get home to their families, and we need to trek a while to watch as Machu Picchu is revealed at the sun gate!! The last night we thank the porters and chef, the tips are given out and we say what has made our time so special so far. It's a bit emotional really knowing that the adventure and family is coming to an end. One last game of Shithead for the road, and then solemly we head to bed.

 

Inca Trail - Day 2 Dead Woman's Pass....

So, after literally no sleep due to freezing my butt off in the tent. I lay all night practically counting down the seconds till my coca tea to warm me up!! I had on long thermals top and bottom, long sleeve T-shirt, fleece, shorts over my thermals... Just don't think my sleeping bag cuts it and am a bit worried for tomorrow night which is much colder. Plus, my air mattress kept slipping when I moved as we were on a slope, then in the morning I realised you are supposed to blow it up... Hmmm! You can tell I'm no camper.

Woken on time with a gentle Buenos Dias, Coca tea.... What I have been waiting for. Saul shouts out to me, "we're you snoring last night Alice?" I reply "you have to fall asleep to snore, and I did neither!". I'm not going to let that dampen my spirits though, sleep or no sleep I am on the Inca Trail!! A hearty breakfast of Quinoa porridge, breads, jams and honey, tea... Lots of it!!! Then we are off. We were supposed to be out by 6.30am but we are a slow lot in the morning! All packed and ready to leave by 7am. It's amazing how efficient the porters are at packing everything up, everyday I am impressed by their efficiency and service it makes a massive difference.

Now the time has come for the hardest day, we all set off with high spirits I guess because yesterday was a real doddle for walking and I'm thinking just how hard can this be really!!! So, we are leaving from Wayllabamba to Paqaymayo which is a 12km 90% up hill from 3000m to 4200m at the highest point with ridiculously steep steps, at some point just straight up with barely room for your feet. This should take us about 7hrs. We go through the legendary Warmiwanusca or Dead Woman's Pass as its commonly known. This is something that myself, Peggy and Kathy have been joking about (they are both 59 and from Canada, amazing ladies) so will have to see how we all get on.

We set off and as yesterday initially I am happy at the back, I like to take it easy and warm up first. The last thing I want is a pulled muscle or more injuries. The sticks are a bit of a pain to be honest so half the time I find myself carrying them. It's not long before I find my rhythm which is the best thing for endless steps, soon I am passing everyone, Vlad is impressed at the first rest stop that I have gone from the back to the front of the pack.... I love the fact he high fives everyone as we meet at each stop on the way, he did that yesterday as well. Both he and Saul take great care of everyone, making sure they are ok all the time.

I am glad that I am not really suffering from the altitude seeing as at the top will be 50% loss of oxygen, I can tell my heart rate is increased and a little short for breath but other than that, it feels a bit like a hard workout in the gym. I go up steps, then pause very briefly get my breath, have a sip of water and then crack on. It's the only way through it. Stop too long and it's just a real pain to get started again. The steps just seem endless, and the porters are walking by quite happily with their huge packs. They all shout at us, Vamoose, get going!! I have a new friend one porter that I seem to keep passing, then passes me, we smile and wave each time... Although he always has a mouthful of coca leaves... It's good to see this isn't a walk in the park for them either.

There is a massive sense of satisfaction reaching the top, not only that but it's not even midday yet! Only 2 others in my group got here in front, Frederick who was at the top 40mins ago and Cat who was about 5 mins ahead. Shortly after me Peggy makes it to the top, very impressive she just kept going till she got here blasting her way through the steps. We get some pictures taken to mark the moment, it's pretty cold so we don't hang about too long and then head down (not quite as nice on steep steps!!!). I arrive in camp at 12.15pm... The porters cheer and clap as we get in which is really lovely, there is such a sense that you do this together and everyone supports you, it is a family. So altogether 5hrs, which is really good... I am shattered though so my tent is the only place while we wait for the rest of the family before we have lunch.

Everyone is pretty much at the camp by 1pm, with one exception Phil (65 I think from the US) who is still out there with Saul. We get started with lunch and Phil gets in just after the soup is done so not too bad. He is struggling with it daily, not sure he was really prepared for just how tough the trail is but no turning back now, the time for that is gone you can only turn back on day 1 otherwise it's just not possible you have to keep going!

So we have a pretty free afternoon, my tent is the most appealing time for a well earned lie down! I get up for tea time at 5pm, when we start another round of Shithead, and then a new game Mafia!! Interesting think it's like murder, anyway I am the secret mafia killing people off in the room... Everyone has to make comments and pick who they think is mafia, Curtis out of nowhere says "I think it's Alison she has the cold hard eyes of a killer!!!!" hysterical, I'm actually wondering if he means it... I thought I had kind loving eyes... Apparently not!!! I think it's the British accent.... always the villain.

We then have meet the porters, it's brilliant we all stand in a circle say who we are, how old we are and marital status... Vlad explains of course that if our wives/husbands are not here then we are single! Hilarious, we go round the whole group cheering each person as they introduce themselves. It brings us all a bit closer together, and soon after dinner we have a few porters join in with Shithead. Altogether this has been the best day, I know everyone else is saying it was the worst... Toughest, but for me I loved it.. Every minute. Tomorrow is going to be a long day, 16km all downhill, down the Gringo killer stairs through the cloud forest, down 1000m altitude...!!! Something to look forward to...

 

Wednesday 20 March 2013

The Inca Trail .... The beginning! Day 1

Here we are all ready and set, it's 7.30am and we are all keen to be going. We will be meeting our guide and his assistant, then joining a second group to complete the trail. Altogether 16 of us will be spending the next 4 days together through our adventure. Unfortunately, our trip is a little delayed by a road accident out of town thankfully everything is sorted quickly and the guide arrives by 8am. This is where we meet Vladimir and Saul, and so the journey begins.

We head to the village, last chance for shopping before we leave. We meet the rest of the group and are all together now. Now we are Family! as Vlad says, to support each other through the next few days. Next stop the start of the trail Km82.

We all get off the bus and the porters start to weigh our bags, mine 6kg on the dot! Yay... I have packed the least I ever have in my life for 4 days so let's hope it's enough! Absolutely essentials only, not one luxury item in my bag. The porters carry everything except your own day pack, there are regulations now on the total weight they are allowed to carry to avoid injury, even so they are carry around 20kg so it's still significantly heavier than anything we have to take. With us as a group of 16 hikers including guides we have 2 chef's and I think 20 porters!!

We grab our hiking poles and other hired equipment (you can get air mattresses, sleeping bag, poles for hire), and make our way to the check point to sign in. We need passports in order to get on the trail... El Camino... Now I understand the name of the black keys album... Ah! Camino Inca... All signed in we start the first day, watching the porters run past us across the bridge and up the hill.

Day 1, or the easy day as It is called goes from km82 checkpoint to our own personal camp ground in Wayllambama. 11km of undulating trail that should take about 5-6 hours including breaks and lunch. It's about 11am by the time we get going really, so we should be done by 5 I guess all being well. We start at 2600m and will walk up to 3000m today. So far no problems with altitude, some others are suffering a bit but I seem pretty darn good! Time to crack on, camera at the ready I am going a bit snap happy and as a result am daubing at the back of the group, although the result is that I get my own private guide I can pound with questions about the trail and wildlife...

There are meeting points along the way when we all catch up, and people selling essentials, Gatorade, water, chocolate and the like. Then it's time for lunch and our first experience of camping life on the trail. I am in awe really when we arrive and the porters have everything setup and ready. Tables and chairs in a large tent, table cloths, knives and forks, cups, plates... As Vlad says this is definitely "Glamping" at it's best. It's fabulous, and the food is just amazing they cope so well also with people with specific dietary needs, 1 has no dairy and others no wheat or meat. Did I say the food was delicious, just the right amount and sooooo tasty. 3 courses as well, soup, main and desert and fresh juices, tea and coffee... I think I'm going to enjoy this.

We get to know the group we have been paired with and then hit the road. Saul leads this time and as a practicing no.1 guide he does some guide related duties giving us the history and information about the trail. It amazes me how much these guys know, and how easily they provide it in a way you can absorb. Did I say how much I was enjoying this so far... Ok, well just to be clear, it's fabulous.

We make it to camp for around 4.30pm, arriving we see that the porters have set up a little outhouse just for us, it even has a toilet and seat! Impressive. Tents are setup and ready, we just need to pick our tent and put in our bags. No. 097 for me and Laura. Dinner was even better than lunch if that is possible, and following dinner Vlad and Saul get everyone together for our evening talk about the next day, when we need to leave by.. 6.30am, which means that the porters will wake us with a coca tea at 5.45 and breakfast at 6. Then a game of Shithead (card game if you don't know it.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shithead_(card_game)), this really brings us all together and is really good fun but no small feet to have 16 people playing together.

9pm and we are advised to hit the hay, tomorrow is the "worst day" as it's known! Dead woman's pass and up to 4200m. Rest is what is needed!!!!!

 

Sacred Valley, trial run for the Inca Trail

Once again an early start after an evening of strategic packing! We meet our guide for the day Marco and head to the bus, we drive up towards sacred valley through the area around archeological site Sacsayhuaman (or sexy woman as they say!!) our first port of call is to see a G Adventure project 'Women's Weaving Project' which basically maintains the old methods of weaving, some of the items made take up to a month to produce.

It's interesting to watch the process, how they take the Alpaca or baby Alpaca wool and create thread, then they die it using local plants for colour which are so vivid, then the weave or knit into hats, gloves, jackets, wraps all sorts. Well I need some gloves or the trail so it's time to get shopping. It's pretty much like being in Marrakech with bartering system and everything for sale, you could literally go broke with all the amazing stuff there. There is also Vicunya wool which is basically the most expensive wool I have head of, saw a shawl in Cuzco that was 2000 soles, so roughly £500!!! Anyway, I manage to bargain away for a pair of alpaca gloves and get a hat in the bargain! Why not.

We then head to take a look at the sacred valley and to visit the ruins of Pisac, and we start to experience a bit of the Inca culture with the knowledge from Marco and seeing how the Inca's created these amazing places we visit today. I also get my first taste of what is to come on the inca trail, camping toilets...!!! Hmmm... Glad I still have one more night of luxury in a hotel.

After Pisac we head to a fabulous place for lunch, all you can eat buffet or wonderful food and we get a taste of purple corn syrup with rice pudding... Hmmm, interesting taste not sure it's my thing but everyone in Peru seems to love the old purple corn. After we have filled our bellies, we take a walk around the gardens to see the Llama and Alpaca's and Mackaws, one of which is a real showman... He knows when the camera is out and likes to show off his acrobatics!!! Very amusing, I spend a good few minutes putting away and getting my camera out to see what he does... I know, small things hey!!

So the afternoon is a Pre Inca Trail test, the ruins at Ollantaytambo, we go through the lovely little village to the ruins and which I believe are about 2900m above sea level. I have to say, I'm not really noticing the altitude which is good, maybe the coca tea is helping in the morning... I'm not venturing into the world of chewing the leaves yet!! We head up the ruins, lots of steps... But I'm loving it, learning about the storage and agriculture, the 12 sided rocks, and the ingenuity of the Incas, we go to a wall with lots of what look like bricked up windows that you can fit your head in, we all line up each with a window and stick our heads in... 3, 2, 1, oooohhhmmmm .... It's really cool how it reverberates through the wall and we can hear all the sounds each of us make.

So, once we are done I get a bit of free time to explore the ruins... I'm keen to get up as high as I can but it's pretty windy. My quest unfortunately is prevented when it's starts to look a bit difficult to climb, I guess plenty time for adventure on the trail! So I head back down the steps and to the market. I decide to take our guide Yuri's advice and buy one of the local rain poncho's which cover your backpack too... I tried mine in Rio and let's just say its a waste of plastic!

Next stop our hotel for the night, sadly Bob and Jean won't be joining us on the Inca trail so we say goodbye that evening at dinner. We see them again at Machu Picchu in 4 days. We are all pretty excited to be starting the trail tomorrow, and keen to get one last good nights sleep before "camping". Let's just say it now, the only camping I have done is festivals and I gave that up after 2 festivals and now stay in a B&B with beds, duvets and showers. And As for hiking.... well this will be a first, I've done day walks but nothing like this. Thankfully sailing gear doubles for hiking except for shoes. Maybe I should have worn the shoes more than once before the hike, who knows... They feel pretty darn comfy despite the fact I have lived in flip flops for the last 2 months my feet still fit... Hurrah! I am ready for this....

 

Tuesday 19 March 2013

Cuzco - City of the Inca's

So leaving the Amazon is sad, but can't say I am not excited about the next part of the tour. So boat, bus and plane later we arrive in Cuzco early afternoon. Instantly there is a drop in temperature as we hit altitude of 3000m, my first though.... Where did I pack that fleece! We check in and this is where we start guzzling the coca tea... Apparently good for altitude sickness.

So coca tea is made from the leaf of the Coca plant, as is cocaine. Up here it's rolled and chewed, or drunk as tea. You can do that either straight from the leaf or they do tea bags. The leaves you can't take out of the country, despite the fact it takes over 18000 leaves to make a gram on cocaine apparently?! Plus you need all sorts of extras which it seems the Peruvians aren't as interested in as the Columbians! But you can take the tea bags out of the country . Anyway, in Peru the porters live off this stuff and to them it's more precious than a couple of soles, suppresses hunger, keeps them alert and with energy which they need to get the 25kg packs around the Inca Trail. Doesn't taste bad (with sugar!), so if it's supposed to help then I go with the flow and get stuck in.

Anyway, back to Cuzco.... So in the afternoon we have a little tour of the neighbourhood and have to say that so far in travelling South America Cuzco is th most beautiful city for architecture with its Spanish influence and the main square with its balconies, intricate wooden carvings it's really beautiful. Sadly a litle spoilt by Starbucks and a Paddy's Bar in the corner!!! But still very picturesque.

So after our brief tour we head to a place called Jacks for a very late lunch, everyone is starving. The food is amazing, everyone leaving keeps telling us what is good on the menu and it seems that is everything. I keep it simple with chicken and avocado sandwich and salad, comes with fries too... And the plate is huge!!!! Delicious... But don't think I will be eating again in a hurry, it's all I can do to stop myself buying a slice of one of the huge cakes to take back to the hotel.

After a little more browsing and stocking up on essentials for the rest of the trip it's back to the hotel. There are a few people in national dress wandering the streets, every now and then someone says "photo" obviously wanting a couple of soles for the trouble. Curtis gets his picture with a lamb, little girl and her mother 5 soles... Obviously the extra is for holding the lamb!!! Still they seem to think he should be paying more... So you do need to be wary when taking pictures sometimes.

Cuzco is a pretty easy city to navigate round and relatively safe in comparison to other places I have been so far. I notice though there are a lot of dogs around, just wandering the streets... Thankfully I paid a small fortune for my rabies shot!! Phew..... In the evening we meet Jacob who takes us through what the Inca Trail will be like and what we need to take so that tonight we can pack, he also gives us our duffle bags which will be the bags used for our personal belongings that the porters carry for us on the inca trail. Then it time to get packing.

Bag 1 is left here in Cuzco, Bag 2 is what I will carry on the trail, Bag 3 the duffle that the porters carry, and finally Bag 4 everything else and overnight bag for tomorrow evening when we stay in the sacred valley.... Already checked and there is no wifi on the inca trail so won't be needing my iPad and various chargers!!!

Good to go.... Only 2 sleeps now!

 

All that I knew was the hole in my shoe...

The next morning we are up before sunrise (5.30am) and pretty much had breakfast and are on the boat ready for the days trekking in the jungle by 6am!! I have my wellies on but they are a bit tight in the leg so my trousers are over the top. Jose Louis takes charge and adjusts my wellies and tucks in my trousers, I realise one of the most important thing is to ensure that nothing goes up your legs... But I'm liking my unique designer wellie look!! So it's long sleeves, long trousers and tucked into your gum boots.

It's early but already scorchio!!! Soooo humid and hot, sunny and I am covered in Deet!!! Determined not to get bitten by the pesky mossies, I have a challenge on my hands I think. I won't bore you with the details but basically the day is fabulous, we boat to the jungle area that we are trekking that leads through to a little lake. So we start heading through the jungle and with all the rain the gum boots are absolutely necessary, it's not long before we are ankle deep in water and mud.... It is at this point I realise I have a leak!!!!!! I can feel the mud and water seeping through the boots and my socks and am praying nothing else is coming with it. Immediately what springs to mind is Neil from the Young Ones TV series when he got a hole in his shoe, and the song he sang.... "all that I knew was the hole in my shoe that was letting in water, letting in water..." now that is stuck in my head for the rest of the day as I step from mud puddle to mud puddle praying I don't develop Trench Foot!!

Despite my footwear predicament I am loving every minute, it's amazing to see so many creatures. We head to our little boat on the lake and notice the rain has it somewhat water logged so Jose and Yuri start the task of bailing out the boat! I'm glad it's not because there is a hole in the boat as well as we are about to cross a piranha infested lake in a tiny little not so steady paddle boat. The lake is fabulous and we are lucky to see lots more wildlife around the edge, including bats and birds.

We continue to trek on the other side of the lake, being given amazing insight into the Eco system of the jungle and the herbal properties and medicines, too much for me to list as I sadly didn't take enough notes but lets just say amazing and I am very impressed by the knowledge of our guide. We have fun with the communication tree, apparently my name is now Alice!! And one tree we can go inside, sadly thats we're the mosses live and immediate I have one hanging off my knuckle.... Little buggers!

Did I mention it was bloody hot, well it is, hot and humid but I am seeing so much and having a great time I hardly notice it. There are amazing butterflies, the erotic tree because the roots look like a penis, lots of colourful mackaws that apparently mate for life we can see them flying around in pairs it's pretty cool, and then on the lake journey back we try to find anaconda and settle for feeding piranha... No, not with the tour members that are a pain (to be honest they are all lovely) but with crackers. It's mad watching them, Bob is brave and puts his finger in the water and then screams.... Everyone jumps, but of course he is just pulling our leg!!

And so the trek is over and we get back to the lodge for a late lunch, all hot an sweaty it's a shower immediately, lunch is of course amazing and filling. Then after lunch it's time to hit the swimming hole... Now we have to be careful as the parasite attracted by urine is in this pool so toilet first!!!! The pool looks very orange, reminds me of the girls in Liverpool at the races.. Haha! But the water is refreshing and just what is needed. Sadly though a few rocks around mean its no long before I have injured myself and heading back to the room for yet another shower!!! In the afternoon we head to a local farmer and try the various produce he plants, and here I have some of the most amazing fruit I have ever tasted Copasu a local plant that tastes like vanilla yoghurt is probably the best, and pomelo a type of grapefruit... To mention just a few. We are hounded during this session by a naughty squirrel monkey that keeps jumping on everyone.

We head back for dinner, yet again another 3 course treat and then it's time for the final adventure, looking for Grand Cayman on the river at night. We are lucky and see a few, I get a couple of pics but one we get so close to it freaks out and splashes the boat and Bob and his camera are soaked!!! All in all a successful day with lots of creatures, it's sad we leave tomorrow as it feels like there is so much more to see and do here but as always its early to bed, shattered after a long days exploring and an early start to our next destination Cuzco and the start of the Inca Trail!

 

Off to the Amazon

I'm easily ready to leave by 7am, all checked out, packed and raring to get started after a good nights rest. We head to the airport in Lima where we will catch a flight to Puerto Maldonado. Yuri kindly shares his luggage allowance with me seeing as I have so much, luckily so far I have not been stung for excess baggage... Not sure how long that will last but thankfully am ok for this one.

The flight goes via Cuzco, altogether 2.5hrs roughly. Just under 1.5hrs to Cuzco then we stay on the plane for a few minutes and then 45 minutes to Puerto Maldonado. So back in Lima, we need passports for the internal flight and sadly the plane is delayed. The airport is crazy busy with people, and there certainly isn't any semblance of a queuing system, it's everyman for themselves if you want to get on a flight!! So once the flight is called we all bundle out way onto the bus to the plane.

On the bus a little girl with a toy clown literally bigger than herself is standing next to me with her dad, she accidentally steps on my feet and so we start a little friendship. I end up taking photos of her and her dad getting on the plane, until we are told that is forbidden!! On the plane I try what little Spanish I know and she replies in English, her name is Stephanie and she is going home today, she is 4yrs old, very cute and not the least bit shy. When we finally arrive in Puerto Maldonado I get my luggage and head to the G adventure bus, she spots me on my way out and runs over to give me a big hug and kiss goodbye... Adorable!!!

So next we have a bus journey for a while, I think an hour and then boat for about an hour and half until we get to the Tambopata Ecolodge. We meet our new guides from the lodge that will be taking us round, Jose Louis is our guide. It's been raining a lot so the road is bumpy, but we have a great time with the other G adventure groups on the bus. When we get on the boat we are handed a little cloth bag with our lunch, it comes in a metal tin and is rice, vegetables, plantains and chicken with 2 little lady finger bananas for desert. I know people have said how good the food is on these trips but this is pretty impressive, delicious. On the entrance to the park itself as we head up the Tambopata river we get out and have our passport stamped, you have to basically sign into the national park.

We finally get to Tambopata at around 6 and the sun has gone down, we are taken to our rooms which are really lovely, mossie nets thankfully, little huts, comfy beds, a shower with hot water!! No electricity so candlelight only and an emergency whistle in case you burn the place down!!! Brilliant, I love it already and obviously will do what I can not to set fire to anything.

Dinner is fabulous, 3 amazing courses, soup, chicken and rice and rice pudding, fresh juices, there is a bar too to chill out and chat with people. Straight after dinner is our night walk, we head to get our gum boots... or wellies as they should be called!!! I realise that I have left my fab head torch back on land, so have to borrow one from my room mate Laura. I grab my wellies and we head out in search of wildlife, not disappointed its to longer before we see insects, crickets, and stick insects and then a Tarantula... It's huge! We also see an Emerald Boa up in the trees that looks like its just had dinner too!! And a few other creatures but enough to get us started and everyone is impressed by the guides ability to spot these creatures in the dark... We are doing well!!!

Time for bed, it's a very early start tomorrow.....

 

Peru, Lima and the start of my inca adventure

I arrive at about 5.30am into Lima, and head through to be picked up by G Adventures, this is my next tour company who I will be with in Peru from Lima to Machu Picchu, the Inca Trail, Cuzco, to Puno and Lake Titicaca. I notice almost straight away a drop in temperature, and it's very misty!

I get picked up at the airport and taken to the hotel Antigua Miraflores, checkin and get my room and straight away laundry is my only priority as I literally have nothing left to wear. I decide a nap is the best thing, so rest until my laundry is returned at midday, have to say that's pretty great service to have it back same day it's not massively cheap but didn't break the bank thankfully. I also meet my room mate Laura a Canadian living in the US, she has planned this trip around turning 30 on the day we get to Machu Picchu.

I decide to have a wander around Miraflores which is a district I guess you could say within the city of Lima and maybe a little shopping, I had hoped to pick up some hiking sandals for the Inca Trail just in case... I head to the outdoor shopping mall overlooking the Pacific coastline in Lima. I find plenty of hiking shops, all with what I am looking for but none go over a size 5 1/2 UK!!!! Seems like in Peru everyone has tiny feet. I grab a nice salad and some empanadas in one of the many fabulous restaurants in the mall, starting to get the hang of reading Spanish now so it's not too hard to get something where I know exactly what I am getting... just about, and again happy to see the Wifi is readily available here too.

I have to say that in my entire trip I think only one place didn't have free wifi, pretty impressive.... Makes me think that I need to try in London to see just how wired we are in comparison with South America and the Caribbean!!

Anyway, I take a walk back along the coastline, the mist of the Pacific having now cleared and it's a beautiful sunny day. I end up at a lovely park, Parque de L'Amour. It's nice and peaceful with lots of couples. The trees all have love declarations carved into them, and there is a huge statue of an embracing couple it's really quite a lovely park to chill out in.

That evening it's time to meet the tour group, it's a nice small group so obviously I have already met Laura, 6pm we meet our guide Yuri, Curtis and Rachel from Canada, Jean and Bob from the UK, Kent and Peggy and Kathy from Canada also. Yuri runs through the next day and the plans, and preparation for packing for the rainforest trip which is first on the agenda. Everyone seems in good spirits and I'm really looking forward to the trip. I cry off dinner, still recovering from my huge salad and empanadas at lunch (well more like lunch-dinner seeing as I didn't eat till about 4pm... So I head off for a mammoth packing challenge, now I have 4 bags to juggle!! I need to pack a bag for 3 days in the Amazon Jungle separately as well as everything else I have, the challenge of the jungle being long sleeve top and trousers... It's easy really as I only have 1 long sleeve top, and 1 long trouser light enough for tropical jungle heat! Done! Early start tomorrow 7am departure time.

 

Monday 11 March 2013

Delivery to Antigua , next stop Peru

So now that the party is over is time to check out of my apartment, head to the docks and EH01 for the sail to Antigua. The plan is to get the 4.30pm bridge and sail to Jolly Harbour, check in to customs and head round to Falmouth. The ETA apparently is 8am. It's about a 12 hour sail and we are motoring across so should be straight forward.

Anyway, there's lots of hanging about as seems to be the norm when moving boats from one place to another in the Caribbean. As a result I get the morning in Jimbo's to chill out, have a bite to eat with Tony and Vadim before the 3 of us are taken to customs by Andy on a tender! Andy is enjoying being at the back driving whilst getting the rest of the people in the tender wet. As usual when weglass another boat he shouts "wave"... You have to be there really.

A unique experience clearing customs by boat it has to be said... If you think it's a long wait at an airport try sailing. We hop from one office to another crew moving between boats, and getting out exit to St Maarten. Then it's the tender ride back again where Andy seems to be testing maximum speed without sinking the back of the boat!!

Once back at EH01 I head off to order dinner, domino's pizza.. Once it has arrived and we have refuelled its time to make a run for the bridge. Suddenly just as the bridge opens the global yacht racing flag breaks away at the bottom from the deck and is flying around like a kite from the top of the mast, with the wind direction it's likely to catch on the bridge and it's just too high to reach. Andy thinks on his feet and starts to spin the boat round and round, wrapping the flag around everything the forestay, mast, backstay, repeatedly until there is nothing left flying luckily the end is picked up and we start the long process of unwinding the mess!!! Talk about advertising.... Anyway, that certainly kills about an hour.

Just then it starts to rain!!! Andy in his skippering duties advises he is off to check the navigation.... Occasionally popping his head up to check we are suitably soaked and keeping course, with a generous offering of a cup of tea and a digestive to keep us warm as the squall passes.

It's a good sail once the rain subsides, I'm on with Harriet from girls for sail, and Gareth is with Vadim, Andy with Tony. This means we do a 2hr shift and get 4hrs off... So who goes first? The only fair way to decide is rock paper scissors... Of course! So we devise a 3 way rock paper scissor game of which after some chaos around who won what, finally I won... Still not sure hoe that happened, so girls first.

It's nice to be back helming EH01, and this is an easy straight line course... Pick your start and follow it basically! We eventually arrive in Jolly harbour around 8 and go to check in, things take a while and there's quite a bit of rafting around so Tony, Vadim and myself decide to not go the extra way to Falmouth by boat. I head there by taxi and say goodbye to everyone, of course for Gareth and Andy I will most likely see them in 5 weeks for Antigua Race week, my 40th and apparently someone else is turning 50 so should be fun.

I head to Ocean Inn and they kindly give me a free room for the day to relax unwind, shower, repack and get ready for my flight to Peru via Miami at 4.30pm. Have to say I am exhausted so it's likely to be mainly me sleeping on the flight.... I say goodbye to the guys at ocean inn who have been wonderful and accommodating throughout my stay and I am looking forward to my return visit. Farewell to Antigua hello to Lima.

It's about 3.5 hrs to Miami and then another 5hrs just under to Lima, and I basically sleep all the way. Again no excess baggage as I get 2 with American, I'm really liking this luggage policy just a shame the food could kill you! In no time at all I am in Lima, picked up by my G-Adventures representative and driven to the Antigua Miraflores hotel (destiny seeing as I just came from Antigua). I get settles into my room, sort my laundry as I'm down to my last pair of knickers and have no clean clothes at all... Then sleep!!!!!!!!! Just for a couple of hours.... The city looks too good to not explore.... Although at the moment it's pretty misty off the Pacific Ocean. I am very excited about this part of my trip so can't wait to get started.

 

Sunday 10 March 2013

Rest day in St Maarten

So after the wonders of the regatta, the late nights and early starts and hard sailing it is ridiculously nice to have a lie in!!! I think I eventually get up at 10am... After all it's another beautiful day in the Caribbean, and it's a waste to spend it in bed. I meet up with the crew that remain in Jimbo's, say farewell to those heading home soon, and make plans with the rest for a final night... Curry Night!!!

I spend the rest of my day, relaxing on the beach followed by packing and getting ready to head back to Antigua tomorrow on EH01. I'm looking forward to the delivery back, getting my old bunk and helming on her, it's been a while. The sea is amazing and it's such a relaxing day time to recharged a little as I will shortly be on tour and climbing Macchu Picchu... As always, sad to be going but excited with my next adventure.

We meet up in Jimbo's, everyone keen to use up the last of their Jimbo dollars before we leave. Then head to Lal's Curry in a Hurry... It's seems everyone in St Maarten has the same idea as us and so we have to find another curry house, at the other end of town... No idea of the name, but let's just say empty and plastic sheeting on the tables. However, they do have wifi!!

We all order our curry, and it's pretty damn spicy... One thing that doesn't mix, sunburnt lips and curry so there is plenty of water being thrown down our necks. We have a great time talking about the many adrenalin sports the various crew do. The Northern Child crew are from Michigan and basically do ice yachting, DN Ice yachting google it or look on you tube, it's crazy! So now we have an open invite. Ice windsurfing .... Hmmm, now thats crazy talk. All in all a great night and some new outdoor sports to look up. And so my time in St Maarten comes to an end, one last sail to Antigua and its off for another type of adventure.

Heineken Regatta Day 3

It's the final day of racing and I wake early and refreshed!! Ready for the race from Marigot Bay. So it's an early cab to the boat and then getting ready to leave the dock. Everyone is in good spirits after a fun team night out, and we are ready to put in our best efforts for the final day. Although it was forecast light winds when we get out it is anything but, and so should be an excellent race back to Simpsons Bay. Sadly we are one man down as Gabe has returned home.

The race back takes a little over 3 hours, mostly upwind and when we are downwind we are overpowering a little so Marucs is shouting to ease the main sail constantly and bring it in. We need to be careful in these conditions and I am ready and waiting on the vang to let it out just in case. I learnt quickly from my first race and Chinese Gybe that a wet rolling boat throwing you side to side is not a place you want to be often if you can help it.

Luckily we manage to keep it together and have a great spinnaker run to the end, it's only when we finish and try to drop the spinnaker that we end up with pole crashing into the forestay and the boom swinging and hitting Sean in the head! Again we are so lucky the carbon fibre pole did not smash to pieces and that Sean was not seriously injured. More dramas as we try to dry off the spinnaker which in dropping ended up in the water... We quickly give up on that and wait for the bridge!!! Best to just no touch anything now me thinks.

The bridge goes up and we head in for the final time, everyone has done really well and this was the best race yet. It's a good crew of people, who have learnt quickly. Although, some still don't know how to us the bloody toilet... Come on!!

In the evening I have offered to cook us all a meal in my apartment and get some drinks so we don't have to fight for a table in a restaurant, everyone heads to mine for 6-6.30 and I get cooking with the help of Carolina. Dinner is a great success and we then head down to join th party, eagerly waiting then Commodores. The party is literally at my hotel, so the good thing is I won't be sent home early like last night as I am already home!!

The Heineken girls throw out some rather large glow sticks which go down a storm, I have my two and am not sharing as we dance the night away on the beach. It's not long before people are slowly missing in action and my crew are no where in sight so I'm dancing away with another crew from Northern Child, and then as I lose them as we meet some Dutch crew that have been sailing in the regatta... Insisting on rehydration (of me!), I get some water inside me and have a dance and then everyone makes sure I get home safely. Sadly the Commodores we're not as good as expected, and the warm up act was much better. I hear later of attempts to get backstage, and awards for best in show at the legendary (and not for good reasons) Red Piano Bar..... All in all it was a great end to a wonderful regatta, something I would definitely do again without a doubt.

 

Heineken Regatta Day 2

So it's day 2 and we are determined to do better with the Race to Marigot Bay. The course to Marigot Bay is a short one, we expect a second race in Marigot once we get in but its not 100% certain, I guess it depends if the wind dies down. but the boat will stay overnight as it is a race from Marigot Bay to Simpsons Bay to finish tomorrow, so I have packed a change of clothes for later! Time to get out my new HR-2013 vest top... Mainly because I am rapidly running out of clean clothes, and am praying for a day off where I can get laundry done.

Anyway, enough boring admin stuff. So the start is about 10.30am as usual upwind start and then some downwind, and so on... Just to keep us in our toes. We do well again off the mark, and don't really have any major issues, right up to the point the inboard end of the spinnaker pole drops down and hits Sean in the head!!! Nightmare, thankfully no damage done to the pole or to Sean! So we fix things, but again this loses us time we could do without. We hit some light air through the race, during which time a mini photo shoot breaks out on deck.. Plenty of banter and fun soon broken up when Marcus shouts "come on guys we are still racing!" serious faces on we get to work.

We make good time though and are in Marigot Bay for 12.30, finish race one and the committee confirms the second race. Just waiting for the course. The second race is a quick one, and we are doing ok right up to the end... But again team effort was maximum. When we get places and scores we came 9th and 11th out of 16 and timeline there are literally minutes between us in the pack. I think we are all a little disappointed with position, but not surprised.

The party in Marigot starts early that evening, as it's straight off the boat. Attempts to shower are scuppered due to the need for tokens and the fact the office closes at 5! Darn... So it's a wash in the sink and change of clothes to feel human again after boiling on the boat all day. Then off to the bar, I go to order (bearing in mind we are now on the French side of St Maarten and no longer the Dutch so culturally it's a different accent, atmosphere... Well just different. So I ask for a spiced rum and ginger ale, what could be so hard! She looks at me as if I am speaking German, I repeat, again, again and the blank expression shows me I'm not getting anywhere, I am then presented with an interpreter who I explain my order to and then says to the lady "rrr umm and gin ga" (that's as about as good as I can describe textually!) at which point everyone laughs and I am open mouthed with amazement.

It's like the pen incident all over again, asking for a marker pen and being asked if I mean something you write with.... I am the one speaking English here...!

Anyway, a few too many rum and gingers later I am frog marched home for my own good by my team mates!

 

 

Heineken Regatta Day 1

So today is day 1 of the Heineken Regatta, the Commodores Cup is not actually part of it but is always the day before. So the big race today is Round the Island, obviously that is St Maarten. Predicted some light winds, so the concern is not actually being able to make it round before the 5.30pm bridge. Anyway, as we set out we eagerly wait to hear whether there is a change of plan of if we are going round the island.

Yes, Round the Island it is... Good news. So, we jostle for our start position and do really well getting a great position off the line. All in all we race well, we don't have any major issues, no breaks, no tears. We hit a wind hole same as most about half way round but at one point we are hot in the heels of Northern Child which is not bad going. Sadly, we lose our rhythm in the end with a couple of slow gybe's which seem to knock us back about 4-5 places sadly.

However, 100% for effort and team work just not polished enough to deal with issues yet or efficient on our gybe's downwind under spinnaker.

In the evening we head off to the party in Phillsburg, where there are DJs, live bands and basically a street party with everyone invited. That is the nice thing about the Heineken Regatta, it's not just for us yachties everyone is invited and it takes you all round the island each evening so you get to experience all of it and not just one yacht club and dock. The party is great fun, Vadim and Gabe get stuck into a huge plate of ribs, we catch up with a couple of people from other crews and have a few drinks and a boogie.... gangnam style as you might say! It's pretty much all you here out here!

 

Commodores Cup Race

I wake suddenly on race morning... Look over at the clock in my room and charge out of bed in a panic, 12.20... Oh no, then I race to the kictchen clock... Hmm 8.30.. I think, need my glasses as its a bit blurred and im not really wke yet. Finally my phone, thank goodness.. 6.30am... Certainly got my heart pumping thinking I had missed the race. Best make lunch and get to the dock so we can get the 9am bridge. I get to Southern Child around 8.30, and we leave pretty much straight away!

Marcus decides we will do a quick run upwind/downwind before we start we are using new sails and the wind is up so it will be a good test and a little training before the main event. The training goes ok, but leaves very little time before the start and we seem to be struggling on the bow with what is needed to mark the starting line. So normally what you do is find the line and then line up with something on land to help you know when you hit the mark as there will be a lot of boats and the start can be obstructed from view.

11am and we are off on the first race, about a mid pack start we arent too quick off the mark but short tacking upwind we are doing ok. However, the hiking team are a little bit over zealous to say the least. Its as if their lives depended on getting across first, holding no prisoners this lot. Vadim the worst of the lot, I'm getting more bruising for his flailling arms and legs than anything else on the boat! He is soon nicknamed the Tasmanian Devil...

10 minutes upwind and we hoist the spinnaker, take down the jib and we are on our way, all is going ok and we look to be doing well. We have not long before the downwind run is over about 20 minutes, during which time we need to get the jib ready for hoist again. We start to prepare for a gybe's, it's all needed quickly and you can see the confusion on deck as to who does what when. Marcus sends out the instructions, calls out trip which is our signal for the various actions however, something goes wrong... I have no idea how but the pole just completely drops out of the air when the line is tripped.... The topping lift or up haul shoots up the mast!

Looking back it seems that somehow maybe the topping lift (uphaul) was attached in the beak of the pole only and not the pole itself, when it was tripped nothing was holding the pole up anymore, and at the same time in the confusion the outboard end of the pole was taken in at the mast instead of let out. We have to keep flying the spinnaker by hand, and then prepare to drop and move to white sails downwind for the rest of the race... Not a great start!! Everyone is in a panic and Marcus does a great job bringing everything back in hand.

So anyway, we need to fix this quick so as we are waiting for the next race to start we put Tony the bowman up the mast to retrieve the topping lift. He does a good job, we inspect the damage and then we are able to use the pole again. At this point we miss hear the call for the second race and one minute we think we have 15 mins the next realise its 3, so have to head for the line and prepare again to start racing.

To cut a long story short, the second race is not much better, whilst gybing the trip line is pulled all the way through, so now the pole is totally useless, we then put together a make shift setup to use an A-symmetric spinnaker as the pole for this was taken off the boat last night in the assumption we wouldn't need it! Sadly gybing the A-symmetric proved a challenge as this had never been shown before, as a result the spinnaker wrapped completely around the forestay and we had to send Tony up to retrieve it!!! Which he did but sadly the sail head was almost completely torn off! Game over.... We are out of th race.

The only thing left now is to wait for the bridge at 3pm and tuck into lunch. On looking round the boat, I notice e tweaker is over the side, and now we are without the blocks for it. All in all about $500 worth of damage done in a few hours.... A real learning experience, Marcus gives a review of the events for everyone and a good positive spin to keep people motivated.

I think everyone is completely shattered, drinks are planned but I am happy with my cold pizza and a relaxing night at home and early to bed. We will need as much energy as possible for the Round the Isand Race tomorrow based on our performance today!!

 

Race training.... Southern Child

9am is our meeting time at Southern Child, but before that we head for breakfast at Zee Best at the marina, one of the few places without wifi. But the breakfast is very good, eggs benedict was delicious. All set now for hopefully a day of training. We meet the rest of our crew David and his wife Carolina, Giacomo (Jack) and Mauricio and from last night we have Joe and missing in action Sean!! Altogether that is 10 including Marcus our skipper, Tony and Vadim. We are still 1 short waiting for Gabriel to arrive this evening.

Sean eventually turns up at around 10ish, wearing the same as he did when we met at Jimbo's last night... We here mumbles of drama's, meeting crazy people, sleeping on th beach, it's all a bit vague and he is looking slightly jaded!

So, time to run through the usual routine safety and how to rig the boat. The problem being we don't seem to know how to rig this particular boat!! No one has sailed it properly before. Luckily for us as we start to run the lines in for the spinnaker Jamie (previous owner) walks past and outs us straight on what to do. He then runs through with Marcus everything on the boat, the speed, the sails and answers all his questions. Jamie is really helpful and we need it!!

Unfortunately, all this means we don't get to leave the dock today and simply run through the safety speech and do some land manuevours pole, up, down, gybe's... It's pretty chaotic and no one (except me) in the crew has flown a spinnaker.... so this is going to be an interesting few days. It's alot of information for everyone to take on board in one day, so will see how much sticks.

After the first nights shinnaningans everyone is ready for an early night so it's a quick drink at Jimbo's, simple dinner then early to bed to be fresh for getting on the water tomorrow in order to catch the 11am bridge out.

The next morning we meet at 9am ready to head out for the bridge again at 11, I'm in charge of lunches so make up some wraps. Everything is already set up so it'sjust a recap and then we slip the dock and wait for the bridge to open, passing the yacht club everyone waves as the queue of boats all head out for training day! It's quite hectic, lots of boats but even with that there is a very polite queuing system that takes place.

As expected training is a bit messy to say the least, the lack of experience showing and also people not listening to Marcus makes it tough. I pitch in as much as I can, and seem to be levitating down to the pointy end.... Not somewhere I've been for a while, but at times I quite enjoy it. The thought of offering myself up for bowman on the fastnet is becoming a bit more interesting an option, will see though. A few of the crew also seem to be feeling a bit motion sick, so that's not great as it means not everyone is 100%, a lot of lying down!

Gybe's are very messy, but we keep persevering until we get at least one good one, this leaves us on the 5.30 bridge back. Getting the spinnaker down and the Jib back up is a challenge, not least because somehow the jib has been twisted so needs to come straight back down... I head back up to the bow to pitch in correcting it with the crew so that we can raise the sail and head back to the bridge.

The bridge makes times a bit of a pain as you are constrained, miss the 3pm and the next one is 5.30. Northern Child and EH01 have the right idea, they have an anchor in the harbour ready for use so that the crew can go for a swim!!! Nice...

So not the most successful day, and sadly the only training we get before a pretty hectic race tomorrow The Commodores Cup, 3 races windward leeward with each leg about 7-10 minutes it's fast paced manuevours and I think we will be lucky if we do well at all.

Tonight though, it's the Mount Gay Rum Secret Party that obviously is not much of a secret. Ita at the Soggy Dollar bar the other side of the bridge from the yacht club, overlooking all the maxi super yachts!! I head over there to meet everyone, but it's early and the party hasn't really started. I run into an old friend, Paul who works on one of the super yachts and have a catch up with him and the guys hanging around the pool table. It's not long before the music ramps up and soon the gang arrives already well oiled from Jimbo's and ready to party. Gabriel has now arrived and we have our full crew ready to race in the morning... Well that's if they survive the party!

The Heineken girls are out in force, and all the guys are happy to apply the Heineken tattoos to various parts of their body, Sean with one cheek out waiting for his to dry, gareth with it on the front and back of his head, Marcus leg... and so on! I'm getting pics where I can, and having a good old dance as the house music blasts out.. The Heineken Girls hang around and we attempt a photo shoot... Gareth's words I think "my face, his arse and you!" not sure the girls are too impressed.. So it's just Gareth's face with Sean's butt! And so it continues into the early hours... I leave at 1.30am the rest still going strong.