Final preparations before the big day...

So now with a full crew we head up for the final morning sail, nothing major just getting things a bit slicker and maybe try a headsail peel or two. This is our last to chance to practice now before we leave tomorrow morning for the race. It's also Clifton and Ambers only sail before we leave.

Things are going reasonably well upwind, headsail peels are ok and so we head downwind we hoist the heavy weight spinnaker. Within seconds Gareth is shouting back, it's torn get it down. Andy checks and as quick as we have raised it we drop it back down. It's not mean feat to tear this kite, so we now need to get in ASAP so we can get it back before race start. At this point Andy isn't going to risk anything else so sadly no more practice. No the best thing to happen, but that's life so we get back in.

The rest of the day is safety, tidy up pre-race, getting the right sails ready and fixing anything. We need to make sure any pointy sticking out bits are covered up!! That pretty much takes up most of the afternoon.

In the evening we head to the restaurant Life on the corner, all the bars and restaurants have free wifi here and every time we get to one everyone is phones out, heads down and checking Facebook or email. The Seabreeze cafe by the dock is nicknamed "FaceTime cafe" because all the yachting are face timing family and friends there day and night!!

Anyway, I order the mahi mahi from the grill.... Everyone else pretty much orders the burger, which I have to say is huge and looks pretty good. This is out last meal for 4 days, so you need a good one. From here on out its basically boil in a bag food, nuts, chocolate, bread and cheese.

The place is always busy, but it seems to also always be overwhelmed. So when everyone else gets served except me and I have to wait 90 minutes for it to arrive... Not impressed! I know this is the caribbean but this is a bit ridiculous, everyone else has finished.... I basically am sitting starving with food envy at the massive burger everyone is tucking into. I am literally about to walk out when it finally turns up, sadly not worth the wait... I eat and head home to rest before the race.

 

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More Training... definitely needed

So day 2 of training and we are still two crew members down, Amber and Clifton a married couple again from New York as are quite a few of the current crew. We decide not to wait and that we need to make the most of time to train together. It's not going to be easy for the last 2 now as they will have practically no time to train with us, even though we will go out tomorrow morning the last thing you want to do before a big race is blow a sail or break anything!!!!

So we head out early and put in lots of manoeuvres, things seem to be getting better and the gybe's go much smoother than the previous day. Communication improves slightly, I have the hand signals sorted with Gareth on bow and that's working better than shouting or trying to hear over everything and everyone else. There's still the same dynamic in the group, not sure that will ever change really but the work gets done and that's what it's all about.

We make lunch on the boat, my turn so working with Joe we throw together some salami, cheese, tomato and salad wraps... Boat food is more practical than anything else! The crew seem to enjoy it, or at least are so hungry they will eat anything!!! Probably should have taken the skin off the salami though... Got a few comments about that! Oh well, I said "think of it as dental floss"!!

We sail back and briefly meet up with Clifton and Amber as they settle onto the boat. I head to get changed and back down to catch the end of the Pre-race party. Again, always 2 days before the race start as you don't want everyone hungover just before a big offshore race! It's free booze, buffet food, and a traditional Caribbean band called Itchy Feet I think!! Anyway, I just get there for the end and then we all head for dinner at the Admirals Inn.

Here I tuck into a nice steak dinner (not a patch on Argentina though), it's ok, limited choice here sadly compared to other restaurants but good quality. Some red wine and finished off with the introduction of a Bushwacka... Not had that before but have to say its a tasty cocktail!!! We head to the Mad Mongoose for a few drinks and then I head home. To be honest watching grown men compete to try and swing a hoop onto a hook at the back of the bar is a bit like watching paint dry... But they seem to love it, hmmmm .....

 

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Race training day... Back in the pit

So now the sailing part of my adventure begins, I get my sailing kit on and head down to EH01 my boat for the next week of training and racing. My old home away from home I think I have sailed about 4000 nautical miles in her roughly and now will probably get in another 700 under my belt. It's and emotional reunion, many happy memories and amazing times have been made here.

Day one is always the same process, we go through safety and where everything is on the boat, life rafts, jackets, fire extinguishers and of course how to use the heads (toilet for those not in the know)!! Now that is the most important bit to pay attention to for anyone planning to sail... The heads and use thereof is the most contentious part of sailing with others.

We run through sailing experience to get an idea of who will be where to start with, and as expected I'm in the pit. To be honest if I hadnt got an injury with my wrist I would have jumped at the chance to be on the bow.... madness I know.... ! Anyway, I know the boat inside out and so it's a quick once over and I'm up to speed on where everything is.

Next we start to rig the boat for our afternoon sail whilst we wait for another crew member Brian to arrive. So of course most things are already in place so the main setup required is for the spinnaker. Hmmmm.... So maybe a few of you don't know the terminology so I will put up a glossary of terms to help!!!

Brian arrives and we get underway, it's a gorgeous day, hot, sunny and plenty of wind. As you can expect on the first day of training we aren't exactly a well oiled machine, it's pretty chaotic. I've been through this so many times I just take it in my stride and let the day unfurl. In a nutshell though, what generally happens with sailors of varying experience is a jostle where everyone thinks they know best, lots of people shouting and telling you what to do, no one listening properly to Andy (the skipper) ,communication is always appalling at the start. But we get sails up, and potter around we get the spinnaker up and do a couple of gybe's... Not pretty by any stretch of the imagination but I'm sure we will get there in the end.

So then on top of this as the only female (at the moment) on the boat there is always the sexism the top it all off. Those who know me can probably guess my feelings on being told what to do, and being spoken to in a patronising tone! Today we are 8 individuals trying to work out how to be a team.... Let's hope things improve before race day!!! Small blessing at least we didn't break anything!!

On a personal note I am very happy that my wrist injury makes it through the day, not saying its perfect but it's not getting worse! Not yet anyway... Having fallen down the stairs at home some 3 months ago, and torn tendons and ligaments my left wrist still isn't back to normal but it's too late now, I just need it to take a little punishment and then will rest again in Peru!

In the evening we head to Cloggys bar and restaurant in the Antigua Yacht Club for dinner and I tuck in to a fabulous chicken dinner... The food here is pretty good quality. Straight to bed from dinner, I'm still getting over carnival and sleep is much needed. Plus once we start the race sleep isn't going to really happen so the more I can get now the better.

I chat a little with Gareth who is Andy's apprentice and the bowman, have to say he's a pretty interesting guy. He was a scientist loved his adrenalin sports, snowboarding and the like and gave up everything to be a sailor! He's blogging too, www.gsailinglife.com... You should check it out!! I would bet there's a book there somewhere with his life changing experience.

As for the crew.... I am struggling a little really to form any relationships. Im getting to know them a little and asking questions, getting a response and then.... complete silence, it's a pretty one way conversation so far with some...! Early days though, so will see how it goes... As long as I'm sailing I'm happy!

 

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Rio - Miami - Antigua

So it Valentines day and here I am with a 6 hour lay over in Miami at 5am.... Lots of pacing up and down concourse D!! Eventually I get my flight to Antigua, and not long before I am there... Someone on the plane struggling with the F to C conversion thinking its 40c outside, trust me... Compared to Rio, it's a bit chilly here in the Caribbean!

I get to my room in the Ocean Inn... Let's just say, compared to the hostel I've just been in, this is heaven!!! And a view to die for!

Next stop Falmouth Harbour and my crew mates.... So I get ready to meet and greet. Down to GYR and EH01 my home away from home, I've spent nearly 6000 nautical miles of my life on this yacht... It has a place in my heart.

So I meet my new crew mates for the RORC caribbean 600 HP, Joe, Paul, Eduardo, Jeff (JR), Andrew and then of course my skipper Andy, first mate Marcus, and bowman Gareth. It's just a light welcome with dinner at the Mad Mongoose. It's hard to tell what it's going to be like from first impressions, but hopefully it will be good. Not all the crew are in, still 3 more to come but tomorrow is the start with training.

 

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Carnival Wednesday (Ash Wednesday) - sad farewells

Today is a sad day in my travels, Carnival is over with the exception of the results party for Sambodromo and I'm leaving Rio.

Thomas from Gecko is back in Rio picking up his new tour group so we decide to take him to lunch as he has gone out of his way so much since the tour ended and been super helpful we feel it's a nice gesture. So myself, Jamie, a new friend Yen from the hostel and Michel all head to a traditional Brazilian grill for lunch. The food is fabulous, and pretty much the best meal I have had in Rio so it's nice to end on. My one regret was the garlic steak, delicious but I'm thinking everyone on AA990 to Miami won't be impressed... Phew that was a hefty garlic pack steak! No amount of toothpaste or mouthwash is getting rid of that anytime soon.

Jamie has followed my attempt to get a room on the last night in the Copacabana Palace and got a room in one of the 5star hotels on the beach, so after lunch she packs up with Lucy and heads over I join them for a drink on the pool terrace and we watch the Sambodromo results. Vila Isabel win as tipped so there will be a party in that town tonight. They judge on many levels, timing, content, story, song lyrics, costumes, choreography it's pretty long scoring but Vila Isabel get nearly all 10s!!

Not long before time is running out, saying some sad goodbyes whilst Jamie tries to pursuade me to move to San Francisco and I'm off to the airport... Not without a mishap of course, wrong terminal... Are you kidding me! So with just enough time to grab a pair of duty free Haviana's I make it and settle down for the long haul to Antigua via Miami!

Looking back over Argentina and Brazil I barely scratched the surface of these places and know in my heart I will be back again. I have many new friends, and have been truly touched by the Brazilian people and how helpful and protective of me. I love Brazil!!!!

 

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Carnival Tuesday (Shrove)

So after a long night of Sambodromo I could really do with some rest, but as my Brazilian friends would say... You didn't come to carnival to sleep!!! I think it's time I actually went to the beach!! Copacabana here I come.

As I said before its bank holiday and the beaches are flooded with people (locals, tourist, cruise liner tours) so there is barely any capacity to fit me in. Not only that I look like a bright white beacon in amongst the locals!! Even though I have been here nearly 3 weeks now, I only had a bikini on once... And my tan is a bit patchy between inevitable sunburns depending on what I was wearing at the time... I've had no real time for sunbaking becuase there is too much to do and too much fun to be had!

Hat on head, sarong in hand and enough water supplies to rehydrate the whole hostel and of course sunscreen I head down the block from the hostel to the beach. The sand is scorching, but there are walk ways along the beach where they run in pipes with holes that spray water to cool your feet and compact the sand into a little path... Bright idea although not sure why they wasting fresh water when they could pump sea water up... But that's just my environmental conscience speaking..!

I take up my position and set out my sunbaking stall.. Not long before people are watching me turn pink! Maybe just being paranoid, but I do stick out with my blonde hair and Lilly white skin turning a lovely shade of red... Also at this point no umbrella. What a faux pas..

Literally within 20mins of sitting down along comes a guy asking if I want an umbrella, no way I'm British I can do this, I've got a hat... Although I was surprised he spoke to me in English... "I'm fine" I say, he replies "are you sure?", "yes" I say, "are you really sure"... Yes.. Totally! Come on... Do your worst. He circles back round 20 mins later... "are you sure?" ok... I give up, I'm dying give me an umbrella. We start chatting and no he doesn't work in IT, but he is British... Brazilian dad, mum from the Seychelles and he moved to Brazil 10years ago.. Arnold! Originally from London, unbelievably near Wanstead he used to play football on Wanstead Flats. Small world indeed we have the occasional chat every time he passes and he brings me up to date on why he moved here and Brazilian men and women and lifestyle !!!

So in a nutshell (not overly laden with stats and simply from a poll of one!), there are more women than men here in Rio so the men get the pick of the bunch and the women are competitive in being attractive as are the muscle bound men (steroids are big in Rio, hence testosterone none sense at carnival). All through Brazil where there have been different settlers over time there are different looks, from the Scandinavian of the south to the Africans in the north. Rio has a mix of everything to choose from.

Men find a beautiful wife, and usually have a girlfriend (or 2, 3 on the side). The women basically want children before they are 30 (now that's not the first time I heard this, the mother of the hostel owner was talking and said the same thing) so they pressure their men into fatherhood. The compromise being they play around! Even Marci commented that's Brazilian men's introduction is hello, let me stick my tongue in your mouth! Must just be me then, could it be the 'touch me and you die' look in my eyes that keeps them at bay.. Haha. I get the feeling Arnold moved to Brazil to be a playboy...

So after my 'education' a term I use very loosely... I realise I've been on the beach 4hrs, not eaten and need to plan my last night. I have had a bit of a wander into the ocean at times, it's hard when there nearly as many people in the sea as there are in the beach and the waves come crashing down on you and try to take your feet from under you... But it's refreshing and a much needed cool down. But as expected, I'm pretty red by the time I get back.

So time to make plans, sadly everyone is missing in action no Jamie, Lucy, Cathy is laid up with a bad infection in her foot. So time to look elsewhere, Marci had given me her contact info so I email and we agree to meet up in Lapa for Sargento Pimenta... Basically a Brazilian Beatles tribute band, I have to say that sounds just perfect to finish on. We make plans to meet, but I soon realise on arrival that with the hundreds of people there the description in Lapa near the aqueduct isn't really a good meeting point!!! I'm wondering how on earth I will find them with no phone or any means of contact. Hmmm... So I start my plan of attack, working from the outside of the crowd in... Luckily within 15mins I hear someone shouting my name and find them... Phew! We head into the crowd with our Capri vodkas and hotdogs and start belting out Beatles hits. It surprises me that brazilians know all the words but basically have no idea wht they mean!

Anyway, a fun night is being had by all singing, dancing and even a samba remix of a couple of Beatles songs... Very interesting! Of course in crowds like this it is inevitable something will happen, it's not long before a guy tries to put his hand in my bag... Luckily my lightning reactions (developed at Brixton Academy) spot the attempt and grab the hand and stop the theft. They guy denies it of course, but I'm soon surrounded by Brazilian men who send him on his way and I am protected again and given a lesson in spotting guys from Flavela's that are dodgy! Luckily he got nothing, but I was prepared with my crappy phone and camera purchased for exactly such an event, my spare 100 real in my bra, and key in my zipped up pocket! Safety first.

Night turns to morning, and the whole event is really a fabulous end to such an amazing and surprising time in Rio... I met lots of really lovely people, and got home in one piece. It's not over yet I know, one last day remains and some more farewells and then Antigua and a whole different type of adventure.

 

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Carnival Monday - Sambodromo

So the big day has arrived, and the plan today is rest rest rest..... The parade tonight is "the best of the best" samba schools competing to win the championship. I had done a bit of research before buying and have to say this was definitely the best day to go.

First things first, I have to pick up the tickets. It's quite easy to get them online, I used www.Rio-carnival.net the official site and then can pick up in Rio but to be honest I could have just waited and got a deal when I arrived, and if you really like to risk it you can always go on the day and see what deal you can get. I paid £100 for sector 10 which is towards the end, I was really happy with the tickets. Others had bought more expensive box seats with food, drink etc for about £350 each but personally I think we had a great view and it was fun to be with the locals. Sector 12 and 13 are cheapest £30 or something and set back so the view is obstructed a bit. They don't release the tickets until very close to the event in order to prevent fake tickets being circulated.

Pick up is really easy, they used a hotel in Largo de Machado only 3 stops from me in Copacabana on the metro so I head out through the crowds already gathering on the beaches and in the streets for carnival. The metro runs 24x7 when carnival is on and is by far the best way around, either that or taxi but I'm quite liking the metro. I have a pay as you go card, easy to top up and usually means you avoid queuing for tickets after a parade finishes and get on quickly.

I saw something interesting on my travels, outside the metro station I noticed a playground. I thought nothing of it really until I noticed it was full of older people and a few kids. Look even closer and I realised its a kind of multigym, all the traditional kids playground things... Slides, swings etc but then there is a cross trainer type thing, and something for arms, all sorts of exercise equipment for all ages to use. Not a bad idea, and free...

I get back tickets in hand and catch up with Jamie and Lucy to see how they are getting on with their tickets for Sambodromo tonight, they have already been but they want to see the difference in the best of the best! Sadly they aren't in sector 10 but are opposite in sector 11. This is where my local sim comes in handy and Thomas our Gecko tour guide is amazing as ever, helping us find tickets at the best price and arranging for them to be delivered. It's a little stressful, but finally they arrive at the hostel.

One last job and then sleep.... So, I head out with Lucy so that she can get money, what should be an easy job ends up with us pounding the streets of Copacabana whilst every ATM rejects the transaction (at this point I am relieved that I took out quite a bit earlier). It's a bank holiday here for carnival, so most things are shut as everyone, literally, is at the beach or a parade. This is something that I vaguely remember happening to me before in some foreign countries that on bank holidays international transactions basically stop! And that is what's happened here, no banking till Weds now!!!

Anyway, all this pretty much burns my rest time but having travelled a lot I know the stress of suddenly finding yourself without money. It's not a nice feeling, so glad to help in any small way I can. I get about an hours rest in the end, better than nothing but first the hassle of fans not working again as it looks like the electrics have gone I the room now! Hostel life!!!

Time to get ready, I have my small token headress on for carnival just to fit in oand we head out. Sambodromo is near Praca Onze station, or Central this really depends on which side you are on odds or evens. Evens go to Praca Onza, odds to Central if you go to the wrong one it's a very long walk. I meet Claire and Cathy and we head in, although Cathy is really struggling with her foot which is very swollen and both girls seem to be having a bit of a bad time in Rio Claire being I'll and Cathy injured, I'm sensing staying to the end is not an option for them!

We are going to see São Clemente, Mangueira, Beija-flor, Grande Rio, Imperatriz, Vila Isabel. Vila Isabel are apparently tipped to win this year, and these are considered to be the best 6 so should be good.

Format is they have 1.5hrs maximum to parade, 15mins roughly between each school to clean up feathers and the like that have fallen off. It opens at 7pm and parade from 9pm and ends when they are done, but pretty much 7am ish is likely. So it is a very very long night. You are given a guide for free with information and the lyrics to the samba songs so you can sing along with it, plus a fan which is much needed. The guide tells about the themes each school has chosen as well, and it's really quite interesting to see so much effort made, Samba is a big part of Brazilian culture here and there are a lot of supporters in the crowds for their school.

The parade is spectacular, just when you think it can't get better the next school comes out. The floats are elaborate and costumes colourful, so many feathers (not real, apparently that was something dictated some years ago) full of surprises, like a car reversing out of one float. The dancing and show is breathtaking, if you go to Rio for carnival and do only 1 thing it has to be Sambodromo, you basically have not done carnival without it. From floating jelly fish, to depiction of envirnomental issues it's really something you have to see once in your life I think. I feel like I'm making my bucket list in reverse, basically just doing things and then thinking... Yes, that's something you should have on that list!!

At the start of the show, I'm sitting down when I hear this American behind me commenting on my headdress.. I soon calm her and assure her it's coming off before the parade starts. Anyway, this gets us talking and soon I find out she is an Author, Marci ... We talk a bit about publishing, and her book and then she introduces me to her friend Jim... He works for Intel!! I'm starting to feel like an IT magnet here! So, it's not long before we are chatting away and enjoying the show. The irony is that the girl in front of me has pink butterflies sticking out of her head that seem to be constantly getting into Marci's pics!!

Cathy and Claire leave pretty soon into the night and I stay with new pals Marci and Jim, I had expected this really as Cathy looked like she was in a lot of pain and sadly not really enjoying their experience. They seemed to be having a complete opposite time to me, as I was loving every second of carnival. Shortly after they leave I get a text from Jamie saying she can see me, and I start scanning sector 11 struggling (probably because its without my glasses!!) to find them, Jim then says is you friend in a black top and purple shirt? And I see this crazy lady jumping up and down in sector 11 and soon I start to do the same in sector 10 so she knows I can see her... It's pretty hilarious!

Anyway, I persevere as long as I can but my eyes give up with over stimulation and I leave around 4.30ish to head back with Jamie and Lucy. The walk back to the metro alone was fine, you can walk through the Sambodromo itself when you leave and there are so many police around and security at the metro that I feel safe enough, meet the girls and head for bed. It's been a long exciting night.

 

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Carnival Sunday

So today is a day for a few farewells as the UK contingent of the Gecko tour all head back to London. I start with brunch with Misha say our goodbyes and then head to meet Paul, Kyri, Lucy and Jamie for a walk to another Banda do Ipanema parade before the boys go for their flight.

It's quite a nice walk from Copacabana to Ipanema and the first time I have seen the beaches on a weekend.... My god, have to say I have never seen anything like it before. Everyone on the beach has an umbrella, it's like a sea of beach umbrellas, chairs and people like little ants in the water.... It has to be seen to be believed but there basically isn't an inch of space on this massive stretch of beach. Copacabana is about 5k and Ipanema probably not that far off...

So this day is not really a parade to be honest, the float is stationary but the music is cool and fun and the atmosphere is fun. We walk back again to join the start of a parade in Copacabana Monobloco with guys on stilts, more of the same singing, dancing and following a truck. Each one represents a samba school, it's a bit like supporting your local football team I guess.

Copacabana is heaving with people, tourists, locals... Little street parties on side street, and lots of small bands playing around. It's pretty cool, you can find a bit of anything you like at carnival and it's just crazy busy with people in elobarate costumes. You see people from the samba schools in their costumes heading to sambodromo for their performance, it's amazing and the atmosphere is electric 24x7!!

Tomorrow though I will be seeing the best show in carnival Sambodromo... I really can't wait.

 

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Carnival Saturday

So after disappointment I am determined that I will not miss anything again... at 9 I am up and ready to head to the city and Cinelandia (no its not a cinema complex) this is where I get to see the biggest street parade in carnival 2 million people hit the streets to join a parade and dance along, eat, drink and party. Cordão do Bola Preta!

Sadly, in this I'm alone.... No one wants to go, too tired or many other excuses, I personally didnt come to Rio Carnival to sleep so I put fear of kidnappings and muggin aside, get my cheap crappy camera and phone (brought specifically for the purpose of being stolen!) and head down to the party. It's supposed to start at 9.30am, so in my mind should be kicking off as soon as I get off the metro. Let's go...

So I arrive, get off the metro which is pretty busy and work my way to street level. When I get to the top there are plenty of people but no music, no floats... Hmmm I am sure I didn't get this wrong. Anyway, I have a bit of a walk around to see if I can spot anything, hear anything? I do this for a while... Then, maybe it's just late... You know, a bit like "Fiji Time", it will start when they get round to it...

Then some music starts, a lone drummer and slowly a crowd tether around him and they start to dance and move along then it stops! Basically my mind is becoming a bit confused, maybe I have misunderstood something about carnival and basically it's just a bunch of people milling about and drinking in the street.. Then randomly drumming and walking a few feet? What's all the fuss about? So after waiting a good hour and half I finally find out the parade start point has been changed and I am now at the end of it rather than the beginning. Also, they are still in warm up mode at the other end of the street... But should be with me soon. Ok, I was worried for a bit but now know I can stand fast and wait.

Good as that sounds, a snow white skinned, blonde girl standing on a street corner in Rio is not quite so inconspicuous... Luckily for me a local who speaks English spots me, and their group take care of me as the parade starts to draw near... I also get a bit of a Portuguese lesson thrown in! At the same time friends are texting to check I've not been attacked and left for dead in the streets. The locals are funny, very protective and always saying put your camera away now, put the phone down, I feel like a child with over protective parents. The irony of it all is the Rubem, one of the group put his wallet in his pocket and it was stolen. So preoccupied in protecting me, he was robbed!

The atmosphere in the street is amazing, as it gets completely packed. Everyone in costume, dressed up, running around and having fun. Lots of kids loving spraying foam on everyone, it's people of all shapes, sizes, ages, the streets are packed... There is a group of bat men and women who start climbing up the trees, onto near buildings running around dance with everyone cheering them on. In the distance I can finally see a float and hear some music, brilliant it won't be long now...

An hour and half later the first float is in front of me, it is soooooo slow! Not surprising when they have to try and avoid running over everyone around them. It's crazy you can't move for people and the trucks can barely move forward. The music is fab, really fun and everyone is singing along and dancing. The whole thing takes about 1.5 hrs to pass me. So basically I got here at 9.30am and left around 3pm!! I was really surprised though with 2m people in the city how easy it was for me to get back to Copacabana on the metro... Simples!!!

Well time to do it all again tonight, Banda do Ipanema.. So this is a bit smaller, Bola Preta has 5 floats this has 1, its by the beach and a big draw for the local transvestite and gay community but same thing, lots of people costumes, dancing in the street. It's great fun to watch and join in. So far, I'm starting to really like carnival and the people in Rio have been nothing but helpful, protective and friendly. What more could you want?

 

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Carnival Friday

So today I have a twinge of a hangover!!! But still manage to get up early (ish) have breakfast and start to think about the first day of carnival and the arrival of Cathy and Claire from the UK! I am quickly pursuaded that the best thing to do on such a beautiful clear day is Sugarloaf mountain.... But first practicality dictates that I pick up laundry... The pit fall of travelling over long periods is the basic day to day stuff that dulls the fun! Oh well... Admin done its off to sugar loaf.

I pickup up Cathy and Claire on the way, and we head up in the cable car... It's pretty much a similar experience to table mountain in Cape Town really...except the floor doesn't rotate! But I have to say that's a blessing.... So we reach the first station and take in the spectacular views, have a bite to eat, take pictures.

Ah, now this is where I realise my wonderful system of replacing SD cards, loading onto my iPad, and swapping around cards for the purpose of trying ensure in the event of robbery I don't lose all my snaps, is really good providing that you remember to put your SD cards back..! Damn... But being a braver tourist that on day 1 in Rio I thankfully have my iPhone with me to at least take a few decent snaps... Gutted though!!

So snapping away, we head up to the next station view point higher up, and at this stage we are actually in the clouds... Crazy to see the little fluffy clouds floating by and at some points actually going through them... But not enough cloud to prevent a decent view which is good as that does happen a bit apparently. And I'm glad to see that the weather forecast the apple app has been predictining for everyday of thunder, rain and showers is a load of old tosh! It's scorchio.... Blue skies and fab weather.

So sugarloaf ticked off the tourist list, it's back for some rest and recovery before heading out for carnival parade in Ipanema to kick off. Things go a little pear shaped in my organisational skills, and power napping (still recovering from the night before) and well, by the time I get to Banda de Ipanema parade it's all done.. So I just take in the aftermath in the streets and on the beach with all the hundreds of people still around and then head back to the hostel. Tomorrow determined to NOT miss carnival...

 

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Goodbye Gecko, hello carnival!!

So the tour is over and it's time to pack up and move to the hostel... It's sad to say goodbye to Thomas who has been with us for 7 days now, his insightful information, his funny jokes and helpfulness will be sorely missed. It really made a difference to how much i enjoyed the tour the tour, also not sure I would have survived the rainforest walk without holding him in a vice grip!

Jamie my room mate through the tour is also at the same hostel so we head there together, we both booked private rooms (advertised as twins) and neither can remember if it's with a bathroom or AC... We will soon find out. We check in and I get the bathroom, Jamie the AC with her new room mate Lucy. The room is on the 3rd floor and I am glad when Kyri from the tour offers to help me with my bags.! So here we go, I open the room expecting a nice spacious 2 twin bed room with a bathroom and get a shoe box, with bunk beds (at this point I thank god that I'm not actually sharing with anyone!!!) and the bathroom is basically a shower over a toilet... I can just about get all my stuff in and still move. Compact and bijou is a massive exaggeration!

Anyway, I head for food to a place recommended in the LP, and then attempt to pick up my laundry! Looks like there's a snag... Come back tomorrow!! Thankfully, I do still have some clean clothes, so I head back to get ready for our first real night on the town in Rio!

I meet up with people from the tour group and head for dinner first, can't go out on an empty stomach. We get a giant pizza from a local restaurant and some capri-vodkas (basically capriahinas with vodka instead of rum) very nice!!! The giant pizza turns up and having ordered the Brazilian equivalent of a meat feast are a little surprised by the arrival of chicken!! So after a little discussion they go to replace it, basically it returns with the original topping but now some extra meat!! Oh well, we are starving and dig in.. It's pretty soon gone!

Next we head to the Copacabana Palace to try and get into the pool bar which is supposed to be lovely.. sadly we are scuppered and just barely are allowed in to have a look round, so with no chance of a cocktail we pick up a couple more of our party and head to Mud Bug.... Somewhere that does let you in thankfully.

Now in Bazil you go to a bar or club, they give you a card, charge entry and then all your drinks are put on that card you then lay when you leave, sometimes the cover charge is reduced based on how much you drink, sometimes you get credit against a drink and so on. Interesting concept, the only problem I find with that is no one tells you how much anything costs, and before you know it you could easily rack up a pretty hefty bill (in south American terms that is!), if they did this in London I'd probably be bankrupt!!! If you loose the card you pay a fine, and you can't get out without having paid as the bouncers wont let you... Again, interesting that in London the challenge is more getting in than out.

Anyway, needless to say much fun was had Mud Bug is interesting as it plays music and is a cool bar, no one dances and it has sport on... It calls itself a sport bar, but I think in LP and other places it's seen as something more... It's a fun place to drink, and tonight is busy. But soon the need to throw some shapes means we are heading to Melt in Leblon.

Again clubs are not really what you expect, it's live music here and a mixture of styles definitely not Ibiza!! But it's fun, the band play really well and we are meeting people and strutting around the dancefloor having fun! The highlight was a samba style version of Michael Jackson... Just brilliant! Coming to leave and the old card payment, this is where things can easily go wrong Jamie was stung when she gave her card and money together, the guy then gave her the bill and insisted that she pay, whereas she had already given the money.. There was no bargaining on this though, so she ended up paying again... So you do need to be a bit careful!

As always, I seem to meet people in IT no matter where I go... I must be a geek magnet. Anyway, whilst struggling to communicate with what little Portugese I know (basically hello, good morning and thank you...!) I meet 2 guys that speak almost perfect English, and you guessed it both in IT. One working for Dell (and yes I did tell him how useless their equipment is!!) the other for the Brazilian government... Ah well, let the geek talk begin!

All in all it was a really fun night, good times had by all!!

 

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The top sights in Rio....

Sadly it is the last day of our tour, and we head off for the main sights of Rio before the onslaught of carnival and the arrival of thousands of tourists tomorrow!! Rio is classed as the 5th most "beautiful" city, with the world by the world heritage site with is stunning landscape of mountains, bays and beaches and stunning views. I certainly wouldn't say that at street level but have to agree that the view from the mountain sides is spectacular.

We start by heading to a view point for seeing the city, and the Christ Redeemer statue then head to the statue itself. Today is a day for lots of pictures, taking in every aspect of the city. And of course classic tourist pics, skwish the redeemer, put your hands up to Jesus! You get the idea...

The statue is emense, so much so, you have to lie down to truly fit it in a picture... I read about this in the Brazil book by Michael Palin where he talks about what plans were and how they were adapted to give the end result today which has the statue looking down over the city. As long as the day is clear and sunny it can be seen quite clearly from most places in Rio. It is truly and iconic image and now you know you are in Rio!

Next stop Santa Theresa to view selaron's stairs, an artist in Chile who moved to Brazil for the woman he loved and fell in love with the city. It is sad news to find out he recently died and here we hear that the artist set himself on fire on the steps he dedicated years to creating with colourful tiles as a mark of his love for Brazil. The steps evolved when people from all over the world were inspired and started to send him tiles, which he would then use and replace on the stairs. It is a truly beautiful work of art and sad knowing that this now will no longer continue to evolve.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2013/jan/10/artist-found-dead-rio-mosaic

We continue with our city tour, visiting cathedrals and various beautiful buildings... We have lunch in Colombo cafe which is a beautiful old building, then more city touring before we head back to the hotel. Sadly no time today for much more as the traffic in Rio slows you down.

So its our last night and we were hoping for a group dinner, however 1/2 the group don't come, personally I think that's just rude but what can you do with youngsters these days...! I won't start a middle aged rant, but needless to say I'm not heartbroken!

Thomas takes us to a local place which is pretty good... However, I have to say right now I would give my right arm for some green vegetables.... ! Thomas gets a local dish of black bean soup, with chilli... A few of us give it a try and it's actually pretty good! We soon notice Rio is a bit more pricey than we have been used to, but even so... I'm not actually breaking my bank out here by any stretch of the imagination.

After food we decide to try and find a night spot., sadly this isn't a success. After the recent fire in a Rio nightclub resulting in a number of deaths it looks like some of the clubs are shut to get their certificate of safety updated and to ensure they meet fire regulations... So after walking around for 90 mins we realise it's a lost cause... off to bed!

Oh well, it's carnival tomorrow so can't really complain as its not like there won't be much partying!!!!

 

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Rio....

And so after a pretty bumpy 13hrs on a bus trying and failing to sleep I finally make it to Rio, as we arrive at the bus station in the north of the city I can see my first glimpse of carnival floats... Yippee. The city itself on arrival doesn't look great, very run down but this is the poorer side of town apparently. We pick up our things and wait for the mini bus with guys hanging around waiting to carry your bags to get money, it's a struggle to stop them and say no!
All ready, next stop Copacabana..... We arrive at the hotel, check in and sort out our bags then head to a cafe for some breakfast. After we are fed its a free afternoon to do with as we please. Thomas kindly offers a bit of orientation and helps me get laundry sorted out, and takes a few of us down to the beach and along the front and then on to the Haviana shop which to be honest is a must!!!
I have never seen so many Haviana in my life, and you can MYO.. (make you own), you can even pimp your flip flops with some bling... Haha, so much choice I have no idea what to pick so think I will come back to this later on!
Next stop is taking a look at where my hostel is, so Thomas walks me down there so I can check it out. Have to say it looks ok, and am looking forward to getting there and having my own space for a while and being in one place for a week and not constantly repacking!!
The group head out to dinner all you can eat pizza and kilo dinner, e.g. you pay by weight, it's ok but the pizza is just bread and cheese... No tomato! Then the real surprise is the desert pizza, with chocolate or banana, with ice cream. Interesting and quite nice!

Tomorrow is the final day of the tour and farewell to Thomas...

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Next stop Rio... Carnival countdown

So all plans on the island for sunset and sunrise views were scuppered by clouds so I take a final walk up to the lighthouse panoramic view of the island, at this point too exercise is good as the rest of the day is bus, bus, bus again to get to Rio.

We leave on the slow boat, with some people looking a little green as we roll around... We catch a local bus to Curitiba, with not much time it's the local shopping mall for dinner. Hmmm... Mexican it is. Again, not sure it's a good idea before a 13hr bus trip but what the hell.

And so back on the bus, trying to claw whatever sleep I can before we get into Rio.... Nervous about this next bit of the trip, but getting excited now for the last few days before the party starts!!

 

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Attack of the killer sand flies....

Next morning I'm feeling a bit better, so tentatively start to eat a little bread, drink a little tea... Yep, I will be fine. So, as it's bit cloudy today I think a nice walk up the beach to the fort is in order. The beach is flat, 5k long so a good 10k walk, I splash on a bit of sunscreen, cover myself in insect repellent (having learnt last night you don't leave your hut without it) and head out once again with my Tesco bag of bottled water!

The walk is great, the fort is good, nice view, takes about 3hrs round trip so lots of walking. I go for a bit of a swim before I head back in a nice secluded part of the beach. My swim is sadly cut short when a fish takes a bit of a disliking to my presence and starts to attack me in the water... Of course at this point I'm freak out, are there piranhas in Brazil? I'm not saying I ran out the water screaming, but it was a brisk walk... Probably because the fish was pushing me with all it's little strength... Cheeky bugger!

I grab my things having got the message, and head back... on dry land now, I realise my repellent is all washed off... Within seconds I'm being chased down the beach by hungry sand flies, Tesco bag flailing around me trying to get the little critters off my legs. To say it was a relief to reach my hut is an understatement. Priority 1 shower, priority 2 repellent and lots of it...

So, this is when it rains... And when I say rain I mean it, absolute torrential downpour. We all pretty much run to the restaurant for dinner. This is a local islander spot and I am persuaded to share the fish stew speciality of the house. What the hell... It's delicious, comes out in a clay pot and has octopus, squid, prawns, mussels and fish with rice and chips! I stick to rice. But amazing, really nice and thankfully doesn't poison me! We wait out the rain and then walk back through sandy puddles to the inn.

 

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Island life... Sweet like honey!

So another early start (I have to say this tour lark is a bit like having to work, bed by 9pm up at 7am!! Haha... ) so after a delicious breakfast of fresh fruit, which is a first so far and a welcome relief from bread and cake, we head onto our little mini bus. 20 mins in to the journey the bus is overheating and the water leaking... So we are now in for a stop start journey to get to our boat! Thankfully though we make it, and are soon speeding to our next destination across the water Ilha do Mel!! Island of Honey.

The sun is shining, the water is blue, the beaches are sandy and clean, it's truly a small paradise island and a welcome change from the bustle of cities. Thomas gives us some orientation around the surf beaches and what to do and we head to VilaVerde our little Inn on the island. Once we are settled we get a little tour, and go for lunch... I have crab salad and sushi, brave I know (especially as everyone in the group see,s to be dropping like flies with sickness) but hey I like to live dangerously, anyway the others share the sushi so we share the risk.

We have a look around then head to the swimming beach, the water is gorgeous and it's sunny and warm so it's nice to rest for a while and have a swim. There is a current you can tell whilst swimming, if I go left I move quickly if I go right I pretty much swim on the spot!!

Tonight there is a party in the island so we get some vodka in, crack open the UNO before dinner and get ready. It's not long before I start to realise I don't feel to hot! One "club social" (Brazil's equivalent of the ritz cracker) and hmmm... I think I might be sick! That is a sign, not to mention its taking me 1 and 1/2 hrs to finish my vodka lemon! So, sadly I retire, and yep... Food poisoning strikes, game over.... No party for me!

 

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Slippery when wet....

We arrive ridiculously early in Curitiba, Brazils second largest city. After no sleep on the bus, and with pregnant ankles from the bus journey I tiredly squeeze my feet into my brand spanking new trekking shoes!

From here we get the Serre Verde scenic train up through and into the rainforest to start our trek. This normally goes all the way to Morettes but we hop off 1/2 way through to take a trail through the national park. All sounds quite wonderful and scenic until I see the cobble stone path, soaked with all the rain and warning bells go off in my mind... I can see myself falling on my arse pretty fast in these spangly new shoes! Priority 1 is to not bugger up my wrist anymore or it's game over yacht racing. So, at this point I get strapping up like mad and the splint is on!

So we get started in our 5k trek, good practice for Macchu Picchu really although this is all down hill! It's not long before I can't see the rest of the group for dust, luckily we have another guide leading and Thomas kindly takes care of me. So,at a real snails pace we baby step our way down through the rainforest, both of us slipping occassionally (more me than him), and Kyri is also hanging at the back too so at least I don't feel too bad! At this stage with my good hand I basically have Thomas in a vice grip... And my eyes practically never look up, Thomas points out lovely stuff and I nod, briefly look up and say "yep, great" and straight back to looking at my feet so I don't fall!

Sadly I don't feel up to the swim in the rapids, good thing and one of the group starts to quickly get swept away.... Luckily the park guide Rodney jumps to the rescue! We finally make it to Morettes, with the last kilometre becoming "are we there yet?", "how many k's left?" and thomas always replying "ah, 45 minutes more" and so we walk for 1/2 hour and he says 1/2 hour more, and so on... I think by the time we get there we are so relieved, starved, shattered and will have no problem sleeping.

We head out for some local food, very interesting combination and delicious. Rice and black beans of course, the South American staple diet! Fish and chips, chicken wings, spag bol (sort of!), deep fried banana and some "manioc flour" thing, beef stew. We all devour this quickly, washed down with a Bacardi after a hard day on the trail.. Haha. So, the best thing is the rice, stew, banana and flour... Weirdly delicious! With ice cream for desert.

After this we head back and it's still pretty early, so we have a game of UNO first point of order is to agree the rules, bit like pool it Aussies and English and a it of uncertainty, and they seem to change as you play and people remember new ones!! Anyway, it starts to get a bit manic as the game speeds up and everyone's capability slows down... Good fun, but quickly ends with everyone shattered and off to bed by 9!!

 

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On the road again....

And so we bid farewell to Deigo, after a great few days in Argentina. Barely really touched the surface of the country really but had great fun, and definitely want to return to try out Mendoza for the wine and Ushuaia to reach the most southerly tip, to name but a few places. But now we turn to Brazil and say hello to our new tour guide, Thomas.

This is we're organisation falls over a little bit, we are told to expect the new guide at 9, I think it's nearly 11 by the time he arrives. Then instructions aren't clear in the pack about the next 4 days, so having meticulously packed with not a spare centimetre available I now have to get my head round how to unpack and repack with 4 days... This is about as stressful as it gets!! So rainforest, hiking, and island life now crammed into a backpack... With accompanying designer Tesco bag for the overspill! We hit the road.....

The border is actually in the middle of the Iguazu falls, so right in the centre of the river. So as we drive over we see the colours of the bridge change from blue and white, to green and yellow! We are now in Brazil, I get my stamp and head for the helicopter ride around the falls. With the border and the way the falls lie the majority of the falls are on the Argentina side, however the best view of the sheer scale of them is from Brazil... Argentina get the boat rides, Brazil get the Helicopters.

I join the queue with a group of Aussies and a Brit, turns out she is from Mill Hill just fresh of the boat so to speak and when I say I live in Wanstead I find out she plays cricket on Nutter Field opposite my house! Small world indeed... The ride in the helicopter is pretty cool, short at 15mins but well worth it to see the size of the falls and for a different perspective.

Next we head to the Brazil park, which to be honest is tiny in comparison to Argentina, today is absolutely scorching I think 37C easily and we are all burning up as we walk round, spotting a few monkeys on the way and taking endless photos... I think at last count I got up to 300 photos of the falls, which for all your sakes I have whittled down to 3 I think just to give you an idea. "Awesome" is a word that really does apply here.

I think I am not the only person relieved to hear the bus depot we are heading to in Foz do Iguazu has showers.... The thought of 10hrs on the bus in what I am wearing now, I don't think any deodorant on the planet would have made it through this day and still be working on an overnight bus! So off we go, have to say I'm impressed for a mere £2 I get a shower, soap, shampoo, bathroom and towels. Fresh and ready we start to head to the bus.

Of course now the fun starts, we all get on the bus and then are greeted by more people with the same seat number... This is great when not many speak English, I'm lucky the lady in my seat has a little English she finds out what is going on and comes back. Apparently, someone booked our tickets in the wrong direction!!!!! Some back and forth with the bus officials and we are all split up on 3 buses, me on the last with Jamie. With them being only 15 mins apart there is no problem but you can tell Thomas is a bit worried.

So the bus journey starts and we are lucky that we can swap seats (to sit together) with a young Brazilian guy Eduardo from Curtiba, he speaks really good English and explains he hasn't seen any foreigners on this bus route for 4 years or had a chance to practice his English so we happily chat away until we are ready to attempt sleep... This isn't the luxury of Argentinian buses, but it's not too bad... Semi-Camma travel is a step down, no food service, less recline and leg room but it will get us there (maybe!). Fingers crossed.

 

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The wheels on the bus..

So 17hrs on a bus is not as bad as it sounds and there are many different classes of seat. Semi-Camma or Camma and then a few unpronounceables as you move up the scale. We are travelling Camma, so the seat are a bit like business class airplane, not fully reclined the back goes pretty far back and there is a leg rest. You get served food, tea, coffee, wine and get movies! So all in all not a traumatic experience.

It's at this stage of the tour with all the travelling you start to feel the pressure of tight time schedules. Off the bus we get to the hostel, leave the bags in room and all change to head to the National Park of Foz de Iguazu. 16 of us (including the guide) have about 20 mins to change, with one bathroom.

After endless problems trying to the things you need in the many bags and a very small room full with people, we are finally ready to go... We get a bus to the falls, find our guide and are on our way fighting through the hundreds of tourists for a spot to view the falls and take a picture. The park is quite big so to fit everything in we only have a short time at each stop. Feels a bit rushed, but the falls are spectacular really beautiful and vast, I can understand why this is one of the New Seven Natural Wonders! Tick in the bucket list box...!

The best part of the whole day was the boat ride up the river and into the falls, literally.... It was great fun and after blazing heat of 36-37c all day (straight of an overnight bus!) it is refreshing just should have taken my shorts off first and stuck to the swimwear!! Then it's a very soggy walk through the park to meet up before heading back to the hostel. This is the point at which the whole tour leaves me behind in the park... It took them till they got to the bus stop to realise I wasn't there, meanwhile back in the park I worked out the time (park closing time!) and figured they were on the way back to the hostel so headed to the exit 1/2 way up I see a frantic looking guide and one of the crew pegging it down hill to find me...

As its the last night we all go for dinner and I decide to have a steak and red wine.... After all this is still Argentina, I dont regret the decision as it is the best steak so far and the wine is wonderful. We head to a bar for a quick drink to say farewell to Diego. The waitress brings us a round of complementary capiahinias which go down well, then everyone decides to go back tired after a long day of walking and no sleep the night before!

 

 

 

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