Scorchio in the city...

So today is my final day, with the temperature set to hit 36C today so sun hat, sunscreen and plenty of water! Diego actually asked me what they call people with my kind of skin... ?

As a group we take a walking tour, well I say walking we walked as far as the bus stop (probably 500m) and already we lost the guide! I can see this is going to be interesting... So, we squeeze on with all the commuters and head to La Boca. This is a district where there is a nice street, and that is about it.. You don't go on your own, and definitely not at night! It is really lovely, reminds me of the district in Cape Town Bo-Kapp.

We then head back to the centre, and walk round the city and up to Cafe Tortoni for the history of Tango, all very interesting stuff. Then the rest of the pack head to Recoletta which I already did and I head to Teatro Colon for a tour of the theatre which is beautiful. Then it's back to the hotel as by now I am literally cooking in my flip flops... I am the colour of a medium rare steak!!

I decide to have one last trip to Palermo Soho, for some fruity goodness in the blue bar... Blueberries being the speaciality and I am craving a fruit smoothie! I am persuaded by Diego to take the sub-t subway apparently 5 blocks away... Hmm, 10 blocks later I'm all set on my way to Palermo. More Spanish speaking, I'm getting the hang of this, even if blueberry smoothie is the same in Spanish!! haha..

I even manage to get a cab, give directions and location and get back to the hotel. The cab driver did try to talk to me and we struggled through whilst he asked about my colour... Rojo.. And the heat, 20seconds later the conversation ends and we silently finish the journey.. "no entiendo" phrase of my trip so far!

 

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Meeting the Gecko's...

So, it's time to meet the "Gecko" crew! (Sounds like a bad rap group..!)

So full of paella I head back to the hotel I get to my room to find my new companion. Jamie from San Francisco, anyway I was wrong with my earlier confusion on checking in and Jamie is in fact a woman... She too is staying in Rio for carnival and is also staying in the same hostel as me, and to top it off she is a chiropractor previously a pharmacist so needless to say my wrist is now in safe hands until I go sailing....

We then went down to meet the rest of the group... Diego is our tour guide in Argentina, and there are 15 in the group including myself. 7 Aussies, 6 Brits, a Kiwi and an American. The youngest is 20, oldest is Jamie at 53 but I think she has the energy of a 20 year old. Jamie also already knows 2 guys from the UK having met them on a previous tour round Cuba, and so everyone starts to get to know each other.

We all head out for steak and nice glass of Malbec... Be rude not to. Jamie and I decided to pass on the after dinner drinking and clubbing shinnaningans being suggested. Not like me I know, but had my sensible hat on saving myself for Rio and also want to go to La Boca and Teatro Colon tomorrow and know if I drink with 20 year olds I won't get back up!

Some interesting facts on safety, apparently there is a scam where someone throws liquid, mayo or other such thing on you and your clothes and then others will then come help you get clean... Literally cleaning you out as they say. This happened to a couple of people on the tour. To be honest nothing like that has remotely happened to me here and apart from some empty streets and a lot of homeless people, not really felt targeted or threatened in any way. Maybe my ridiculously red face is putting them off ....

So tomorrow is the last day in Buenos Aires before the real adventure starts

 

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Sunday b***** Sunday....

Ok, so I completely forgot that today was Sunday, and what does that mean in certain parts of the world.. Oh yes, absolutely everything is shut and streets deserted... Brilliant....!! The temperature is hotting up too, today was super scorchio, I woke early at 8am and it was already 22C and I think the high was 33C the red nose is certainly coming along nicely.

I sadly moved on from Luba Tango house, Luba arose (at midday) with the look of having had a "big night in.." (picture Ange from Eastenders after a drink binge!) I remember hearing them finish at 3am... Whereas I was in bed by 10pm. Of course I am saving myself for Rio! I headed for my next stop Waldorf Hotel, which is much better online than in person.

So, I get my room key and head on up only to find another bag in the room... Que? Well, on further investigation I find socks in the sink and washed undies hanging in the bathroom... Are those boxers I see before me? Confused I say nothing, stake a claim to my bed and head on out....

Another day of wandering the streets, but the difference being absolutely nothing going on!! San Telmo, empty, Plaza de Mayo empty... I couldn't even find the bus stop to get on the big yellow bus round the city... Which to be honest I don't think actually stops anywhere.... I found one street (after 3 hrs) with something going on, markets... I don't want to exaggerate but basically that was the only place to go!

I managed to find something I was looking to buy, and started to try out the phrase book Spanglish. "Hola, quanto es? " well then numbers come flying my way and the next thing I am handing over 30 peso for 2 fridge magnets... Only to then be stopped and told no, it's 3 fridge magnets for 10 peso... Ah!!! Silly me. I'm ok on delivery but not understanding response, need to work on that.! Try again...

Minor 'faux pas' over, I start walking again.... And like a homing pigeon I make it to water and yachts, Puerto Madera. Well I say that, but honestly, having turned down a road full of unsavoury characters I panic and head to where I see people and relative safety... and fortunately it was quite lovely. Lucky me :)

Now, having not eaten for 7hrs because it's Sunday and everything is shut (have I said that already!!)... I'm finally somewhere "open", and want to make the right choice so after a further hour of scouring menus, until basically my stomach told me to get a life and make a decision, I pick a restaurant. My mission should I choose to accept... Do not speak English.. unless you absolutely have to to get fed! Impossible... No, Success.... Yes! I managed to get through a whole meal all in Spanish.. Hurrah.. ordering, asking for the loo, everything.... A truly proud moment! Gutted I forgot the "I'm full" comment, that would have gone down a storm...

Rosetta stone eat your heart out, one page in a phrase book and I'm practically local .. Haha.! Ok maybe not, but I'm trying and that's the fun part.

 

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The Itinerary until Carnival

DAY 1-3: BUENOS AIRES

DAY 4-5: IGUAZU FALLS - 2.5km wide 275 separate waterfalls and one of the new seven natural wonders of the world. To be viewed from both the Argentinian and Brazilian side.

DAY 6: ATLANTIC RAINFOREST - Board the Serra Verde Express for an incredible ride through the Atlantic Rainforest, Trek along the Itupava Colonial Rainforest Trail to Rochedinho Peak and Marumbinistas Waterfall, Stay overnight in a jungle lodge, Spend time relaxing and swimming

DAY 7-9: PARANAGUA - HONEY ISLAND - white sand, gentle waves, palm trees, swimming, riding bikes through the forest, eating freshly caught seafood, no cars anywhere and lots of sunshine. Board a boat in Paranagua to explore some of the island that make up the Superagui National Park. Stop at Pescas Island for a lunch prepared by local villagers. Take a walking tour around the village with a local site guide and visit Dolphin Bay. Perhaps relax with a spot of fishing. Spend two nights on the idyllic Honey Island. Visit the historical fortress and the Enchanted Grotto

DAY 10-12: RIO DE JANEIRO

 

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Gardens and cemeteries

My morning starts with my first Argentine breakfast, toast and jam, tea and juice.. apparently this is the norm in this Latin America, a simple start to the day... Can't complain as it was very nice, but I'm still trying to work out what the jam actually was! Up early and out by 10am for my tour of the the rest of Palermo, Recoleta and Barrio Notre.

Basically my day consists of a lot of walking, through some really lovely parks. The Japanese Gardens are small but very lovely, small cover charge for that experience but for possibly £3 it's not bad. There seems to be a reasonable amount of parks and greenery in BA and it's very easy to get around with the usual grid style set-up.

Finishing up with Palermo and parks I head to the cemetery, the main attraction here is Evita's final resting place... Recoleta is pretty much centred around this as the main tourist feature, and you can see the tour buses all lined up. Strangely though it seems quiet and empty, after hours of pacing up and down the rows of elaborate mausoleums I finally find the right one and join the small queue for pictures!

Next stop is the recommended Tea Connection... In Barrio Notre just a short walk. Fab food and lots of tea as you might imagine. After yet another payment debacle!!! This time with my card, I head off for the round trip back to Palermo.

Basically I walked from 10am till 7pm across about half the city, with the exception of my "tea" break. My legs are no longer lilly white, but that's more the dirt from the streets... Best have a wash! I am completely shattered but now have to contemplate the repacking of the old backpack as tomorrow is time to move on and "meet the tour" ...

 

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Palermo... Oh No!!!

So, I read before I left that writing a travel blog, or travel in general is all about the preparation. So, so true as my first days experience tells me..... I truly thought myself prepared:

• Rosetta Stone Spanish for Latin America, I bought it and started it and crammed before I left
• Top things to do in Buenos Aires I looked them up
• Bought all the LP (lonely planet) apps
• I listened to all the tips people gave me, about safety and the like
• I listened to all the talk of black market exchange rates so went out with US dollars as advised

This it seems was not enough.... So this is where my story begins, and where unfamiliarity with a country seems to throw all common sense out of my mind.

After hours of meandering through beautiful leafy Palermo streets in the sunshine, past countless cafes, bistro's, restaurants and bars I am truly starved and decide to pick one and sit down to eat. Immediately realise I don't know how to ask for a table in Spanish. So the Rosetta stone hole appears... I can talk about running dogs, drinking and eating, girls and boys, cats sleeping, but can't ask to be seated and if I get the phrase book out will look like a complete tourist and will probably be instantly mugged (I am of course oblivious to my snow white legs that probably already gave it away). No fear though, the waitress happily confirms she could spot I was English a mile off... Sweet, good to know I fit in. I start to feel a bit more safe though, comfortable in the thought that the guy flaunting the iPad at the next table might get mugged before me, should such events occur!

So, seated I order a salad and water and am presented with a huge mass of food... I plough through this (I think for nearly an hour!) and finally on finishing ask for the bill. It turns up and I am faced with $71, this is where the fun begins....

Safety tip, don't leave with too much money on you... so I left with $40 USD. This being my first bill, the $ to me is obviously USD. Hmm... So I present my card, its cash only as are most places in Buenos Aires I now find out. Ok, so I now have to say I don't have cash for the bill so is there a cash point... Now having literally just walked every street in the neighbourhood and not seen a single bank or cash point I start to worry, but am given directions, oh no.. it's broken.... Ok, so I have more money back in the apartment.... (I am very fortunate that Argentinians are very very trusting and patient) so I head back to base (after minor panic attack when the door to the apartment won't open) and return cash in hand ready to pay.

So, it's only at this point that it actually dawns on me this is a bloody expensive salad for $71, and soon I find out that it is in fact Peso (shown as a $... Great!).. After 10 further minutes of painful back and forth with no translator we work out its actually USD13, which I could have paid in the first place... a valuable and embarrassing learning experience indeed.

So, my next move is preparing a little bit better to get through tomorrow without further humiliation....

 

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Hola Buenos Aires

So after a really very smooth 13 and a half hour flight..... Some rather tasty (no, that is not a joke) airplane food, a couple of exciting films and a bit of a nap (yes I did actually manage to sleep for about 7 hours) I arrived safe and sound in Buenos Aires. After being seated next to a local for this time... Sorry girls I can't provide images of young gorgeous man with an accent, but a nicer older gentleman, who seemed to feel obliged to give some helpful tips and advice to the poor English girl next to him who seemed to appear like a rabbit in headlights, completely unprepared for Argentina! I think at one point he actually sighed at me...

So, helpful tips in hand (to be honest reaffirming the primary interest in this country of steak and tango!) I manage to maneuver my way past the Scottish OAP fishing party, through customs, passport control, where they had to physically put my thumb in the right place after about 10 failed attempts.... I finally make it out into the airport bussle and heat to grab myself a safe and authorised cab.

Next stop Luba Tango House.... I am greeted by a lovely, friendly, happy woman a good foot smaller than me, Luba. She shows me around her lovely home, cosy and right in the heart of Palermo. She has 3 rooms, one occupied by a mother and daughter from the US, another by an young Aussie guy leaving today, and the last little room is mine. I instantly feel welcome and at home, so put on the kettle for a nice cup of tea....

 

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The start of the journey

So here I am finally at the start of my adventure into South America, and other places in that general part of the world (don't worry I will bore you with my full itinerary later no doubt!!!!), LHR Terminal 5, at the bar... red wine in hand and duty free purchased! I now have my Spanish and Portuguese phrase books and am not afraid to use them.

Facing the realisation that for the first time in a long time I am really "on my own", none of the safety and security of family and friends round the corner (I miss you all already x). Daunting as that feels (just a bit!), I'm still very excited for my adventure and the trip ahead and looking forward to sharing on my blog the highs and lows. There is nothing like the prospect of 14hrs on a plane to get you going.....

I have about 10 minutes now till the "gate opens", what a great phrase..... Simply at this point wondering what is on the other side... So, let's hope in the meantime no political nonesense kicks off before I get to Argentina, Buenos Aires.... (don't cry for me...), best get playlist no. 1 on the go, Glee's version of Evita... ! Sweet ;)

 

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