So, after literally no sleep due to freezing my butt off in the tent. I lay all night practically counting down the seconds till my coca tea to warm me up!! I had on long thermals top and bottom, long sleeve T-shirt, fleece, shorts over my thermals... Just don't think my sleeping bag cuts it and am a bit worried for tomorrow night which is much colder. Plus, my air mattress kept slipping when I moved as we were on a slope, then in the morning I realised you are supposed to blow it up... Hmmm! You can tell I'm no camper.
Woken on time with a gentle Buenos Dias, Coca tea.... What I have been waiting for. Saul shouts out to me, "we're you snoring last night Alice?" I reply "you have to fall asleep to snore, and I did neither!". I'm not going to let that dampen my spirits though, sleep or no sleep I am on the Inca Trail!! A hearty breakfast of Quinoa porridge, breads, jams and honey, tea... Lots of it!!! Then we are off. We were supposed to be out by 6.30am but we are a slow lot in the morning! All packed and ready to leave by 7am. It's amazing how efficient the porters are at packing everything up, everyday I am impressed by their efficiency and service it makes a massive difference.
Now the time has come for the hardest day, we all set off with high spirits I guess because yesterday was a real doddle for walking and I'm thinking just how hard can this be really!!! So, we are leaving from Wayllabamba to Paqaymayo which is a 12km 90% up hill from 3000m to 4200m at the highest point with ridiculously steep steps, at some point just straight up with barely room for your feet. This should take us about 7hrs. We go through the legendary Warmiwanusca or Dead Woman's Pass as its commonly known. This is something that myself, Peggy and Kathy have been joking about (they are both 59 and from Canada, amazing ladies) so will have to see how we all get on.
We set off and as yesterday initially I am happy at the back, I like to take it easy and warm up first. The last thing I want is a pulled muscle or more injuries. The sticks are a bit of a pain to be honest so half the time I find myself carrying them. It's not long before I find my rhythm which is the best thing for endless steps, soon I am passing everyone, Vlad is impressed at the first rest stop that I have gone from the back to the front of the pack.... I love the fact he high fives everyone as we meet at each stop on the way, he did that yesterday as well. Both he and Saul take great care of everyone, making sure they are ok all the time.
I am glad that I am not really suffering from the altitude seeing as at the top will be 50% loss of oxygen, I can tell my heart rate is increased and a little short for breath but other than that, it feels a bit like a hard workout in the gym. I go up steps, then pause very briefly get my breath, have a sip of water and then crack on. It's the only way through it. Stop too long and it's just a real pain to get started again. The steps just seem endless, and the porters are walking by quite happily with their huge packs. They all shout at us, Vamoose, get going!! I have a new friend one porter that I seem to keep passing, then passes me, we smile and wave each time... Although he always has a mouthful of coca leaves... It's good to see this isn't a walk in the park for them either.
There is a massive sense of satisfaction reaching the top, not only that but it's not even midday yet! Only 2 others in my group got here in front, Frederick who was at the top 40mins ago and Cat who was about 5 mins ahead. Shortly after me Peggy makes it to the top, very impressive she just kept going till she got here blasting her way through the steps. We get some pictures taken to mark the moment, it's pretty cold so we don't hang about too long and then head down (not quite as nice on steep steps!!!). I arrive in camp at 12.15pm... The porters cheer and clap as we get in which is really lovely, there is such a sense that you do this together and everyone supports you, it is a family. So altogether 5hrs, which is really good... I am shattered though so my tent is the only place while we wait for the rest of the family before we have lunch.
Everyone is pretty much at the camp by 1pm, with one exception Phil (65 I think from the US) who is still out there with Saul. We get started with lunch and Phil gets in just after the soup is done so not too bad. He is struggling with it daily, not sure he was really prepared for just how tough the trail is but no turning back now, the time for that is gone you can only turn back on day 1 otherwise it's just not possible you have to keep going!
So we have a pretty free afternoon, my tent is the most appealing time for a well earned lie down! I get up for tea time at 5pm, when we start another round of Shithead, and then a new game Mafia!! Interesting think it's like murder, anyway I am the secret mafia killing people off in the room... Everyone has to make comments and pick who they think is mafia, Curtis out of nowhere says "I think it's Alison she has the cold hard eyes of a killer!!!!" hysterical, I'm actually wondering if he means it... I thought I had kind loving eyes... Apparently not!!! I think it's the British accent.... always the villain.
We then have meet the porters, it's brilliant we all stand in a circle say who we are, how old we are and marital status... Vlad explains of course that if our wives/husbands are not here then we are single! Hilarious, we go round the whole group cheering each person as they introduce themselves. It brings us all a bit closer together, and soon after dinner we have a few porters join in with Shithead. Altogether this has been the best day, I know everyone else is saying it was the worst... Toughest, but for me I loved it.. Every minute. Tomorrow is going to be a long day, 16km all downhill, down the Gringo killer stairs through the cloud forest, down 1000m altitude...!!! Something to look forward to...
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